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Mister
June 4th, 2003, 08:00 AM
having a problem with my tracker,throttle body injection.when she starts cold,I get a real high idle 2200-2500 rpm then settles down to 700-800 when warm.I must be missing something,have set the throttle position sensor with ohmmeter,just can seem to get away from the high idle on start up.any ideas.thankx in advance.

Mudslug
June 4th, 2003, 09:38 AM
Is there a cold start valve on these things? Could be coming on regardless of ambiant temps...

Mister
June 4th, 2003, 09:43 AM
one of those vacum actuated babies but i even backed it off this morning so the idle screw didnt make contact but it still was around 2100 rpm I only gained a 100 or so.like i said when it warm she is down to 700.maybe the throttle posiotn is wrong ,went by the book on it.

KAC
June 4th, 2003, 11:35 AM
Seems to be quite common my 91 sammy did it too.

Mudslug
June 4th, 2003, 11:42 AM
Its the CPU that is ignoring the ambient temp and assigning a "high idle" to warm the truck to operating temp....like a choke.

My buddy had a Volks with the cold start valve on the end of the FI runner that would leak and when you started the car regardless of temp it would run fast until the gas burned off....if it sat too long it would flood itself.

Mister
June 4th, 2003, 12:56 PM
Originally posted by Mudslug
Its the CPU that is ignoring the ambient temp and assigning a "high idle" to warm the truck to operating temp....like a choke.

My buddy had a Volks with the cold start valve on the end of the FI runner that would leak and when you started the car regardless of temp it would run fast until the gas burned off....if it sat too long it would flood itself.

that makes sense,because the one tell tale sympton it shows is after its warm in the morning and i shut it off for an hour or so,boom back to high idle even tho its 18-20 celsius outside.will look into the sensor and the cpu.thankx again

Fullload
June 4th, 2003, 06:44 PM
Mister i ahve the same symptoms with my 1990 Tbi sammy. It has been like that since day one. Even when warm it idles high for a few seconds and the purrs. Tps sensors are very delicate buggers and like you said have to fine tune it and go right by the book.
If you find that your Ecm may be at fault i have two lying around. One is for a 1990 automatic and the other is for a 1990 5-speed.

Mudslug
June 5th, 2003, 12:02 AM
Sounds like its a zook thing....does anyone have a zook that doesn't do this?

CaptN Air Time
June 9th, 2003, 07:03 PM
Originally posted by Mudslug
Sounds like its a zook thing....does anyone have a zook that doesn't do this?

Yep, me too. It warms up quick, and drops to a normal idle, so no big deal. It barely has enough torque to keep running against the gear lube at 800RPM, so Its probably a good idea :yike

Mudslug
June 10th, 2003, 01:15 PM
So its a non issue then...look at that, we got TECH!!!

Mister
July 7th, 2003, 09:43 AM
might have found something not sure ,got a vacumm line coming off the top of the transmission,actually two of them that meet at a tee joint ,then heads up towards the distributor ,but sits open ,put my finger over the opening ,and the rpm went up @ idle.What the hell is that for I cant find anything to connect it too,i just plugged it for now,but would really like to find out what it is.
no wonder i failed the etest again,false air giving me a possible rich condition.

gordZuki
July 7th, 2003, 09:46 AM
where r u doing your etests ..... u know u can pass them every single time ... regardless of how crapy your truck is running ...

Tippy
February 13th, 2004, 09:25 PM
I am in the middle of fixing a similar problem. A guy on a different site found this worked on his. Where the EGR is fastened to the intake manifold, gets clogged up with oily/carbon stuff. Thisgives funny readings to the computer but not enough to give an error code. I took apart my intake and cleaned it all out. Today I picked up the gaskets and will let you know if it worked.

Tippy
February 13th, 2004, 09:33 PM
The line off the top of the tranny/transfercase is a breather, it should have a white cape over it to keep splashed water out. Take the part after the "T" off and put a longer hose on. this will keep water out of your tranny in deeper water. It is one of the things you should tap into your snorkel. Water normally will not run down the hose but when your hot tranny hits cold water, the quick cooling causes a suction.

CaptN Air Time
February 13th, 2004, 09:36 PM
Mine ran fine with it clogged to hell, and when I installed my Pacesetter Samurai header, I threw the entire EGR setup in the sh!t can. ran fine for a long time after that too, untill it decided that it has some sort of timing issues. Winter just isn't a great time to work on it, so its still parked:(

TheSarg
February 14th, 2004, 08:28 AM
88.5 sami, exatly the same thing, new o2 sensor new egr valve damn near new everything...only thing i can say is what somebody said earlier, ecm is not processing the signal, screw it im just gunna live with it.

Lucy
February 14th, 2004, 10:27 AM
I would tend to agree with the "it's a zuk thing" , most of them seem to do this in one form or an other after a while, sometime consistently some times off and on. From my experience it's a screw up in the ECM 99% of the time ,and it's usually fine to just live with it as it generally doesn't cause a major problem, it's just annoying. The only thing you have to watch for is if your rpms start to fluctuate. The high revs at start up can sometimes be the first sign of you ECM crapping out on you. So if you revs start to bounce back and forth between like 2500 and 750 or worse at an idle it's your ECM dying , but that only seems to happen a small percentage of the time so I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Actually Mister , what year is your kick?

MuddMachine
February 15th, 2004, 07:25 AM
Originally posted by Lucy
So if you revs start to bounce back and forth between like 2500 and 750 or worse at an idle it's your ECM dying , but that only seems to happen a small percentage of the time so I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Actually Mister , what year is your kick?


Ive got that fluctuation at startup. It seems the cause of it is the choke plunger on the backside of the throttle body. Lube it and its ok till it gets really cold again then starts to stick.

Mister had a pretty serious accident in his Kick, broken ribs, and alot of stitches. I think he's gone back to a beemer

:yike

MLC
February 15th, 2004, 11:18 AM
mine didn't srew up untill the ecu. was rebuilt .... i unpluged the aic motor for a quick fix....i since then plugged it back a changed my map sensor ....seems to be ok..so far

Superzuk
February 17th, 2004, 09:42 AM
Originally posted by gordZuki
where r u doing your etests ..... u know u can pass them every single time ... regardless of how crapy your truck is running ...


How???

SuziCrazy
February 17th, 2004, 10:35 AM
Lock the hubs, slap it in 4lo and tell the guy it's all time 4 wheel drive truck. Now he has to treat it like a all wheel drive car. Idel test, rev test, and gas cap test. Now you have yourself a nice paper with great results!

Depot
February 17th, 2004, 10:04 PM
welded or spooled rear will work too... they cant put a truck on dyno if its either. tis how I got my emissions when I started.

D

Mister
February 18th, 2004, 01:14 PM
Originally posted by MuddMachine


Mister had a pretty serious accident in his Kick, broken ribs, and alot of stitches. I think he's gone back to a beemer

:yike [/B]

YOU got it Muddmachine 92 525i 145,000km on it

2 hours 15 minutes Napanee to Brantford ,this fooker goes
big time.paid 8900. 2 yr powertrain warranty.

Depot you got Hu Bin mail,DONT KNOW HOW LONG IT WILL LAST.