1.3 Twin Cam

[drtysuzuk]

has anyone tried this swap? I,ve heard the motor is around 120 hp. the blocks look the same , one has an A on it the other a B.
is the ditributor interchangable with the one in my sami?
any info would be great!:beer:

[MuddMachine]

Hmmm....... I was talkin bout this on the weekend, were you at Suzican ?

[drtysuzuk]

yep, had a blast!!! ran pinion pass on sat &played on the powerline sunday. can you see any major problems with this swap?

[TheSarg]

HeH i think Mudd and i had more fun NOt running pinion pass, as fer the twin cam, rawkin, dude, Giv'er

[MuddMachine]

Originally posted by drtysuzuk
yep, had a blast!!! ran pinion pass on sat &played on the powerline sunday. can you see any major problems with this swap?

I dont think youd have a problem but do you plan on running the 16v harness ? Or were you gonna carb it? I wanna do this with a port and polish plus 10 thou milled off. I love this idea.

[drtysuzuk]

ihave motor and complete harness,computer i think that you still have to use the sami clutch and flywheel, they are abit different. kwow anyone looking for a 3236dgv weber, intake is ported buddy at mch. shop made adapter. works good

[jimny1000]

Hi,
Just to keep in mind the distributor. You may have to use a BFH to dent a bit of the firewall to gain clearance since the distributor runs lengthwise. If you gonna run the harness from a 16V(distributorless), you MAY be able to use the cam sensor. Another alternative would be use a 1999 or newer Swift harness with the dual coil setup and make the cam angle sensor work. It is calibrated to work with the 1298cc instead of 1590cc. I have seen somebody got it done here in Japan using a Toyota Corolla GTS(AE86) sensor to get it to work along with the dual coil setup.
That took care of the ignition problem.

Secondly, exhaust header. The flange off the DOHC is different than the regular 1.3(SOHC). You can either buy a header for the DOHC and cut the flange off it (or if you can make your own flange) and weld the pipe section off a SOHC header to get it to work. A stock DOHC exhaust manifold points straight to the engine mount and hard to get it to work.

Oil sump, I believe you need to use a Samurai sump due to clearance unless you have tons of lift.

Any relocation of the engine forward would require cutting the floor for the shifter (bending too)as well as extending the intermediate driveshaft.

If I am doing this, I would definelty tune the firewall and use the stock GTi harness and computer.

Hope this helps.

[lil beast]

there was a sami runnin a 1.3 16v head on a 1.6 block which i think is a better route as the torque level on the 1.3 is alot less than the 1.6. the 1.3 16v came with 100hp will not have enough torque for a deep mud hole. 1.6 block with the 1.3 16v head is the way to go.

[jimny1000]

Very good point on the torque. The 1.6 do gives a much better low end torque comparing to the 1.3, especially the DOHC peak torque is at higher rpm than the SOHC 1.3. By putting a DOHC head on the 1.6 will gives you higher torque(which the bigger displacement provides), and smoother revving (which the DOHC head is good for). The result would be an engine that gives better torque than the 1.3, but rev better than a 1.6(8V). Another alternative would be a 16v 1.6.

If you decide to go with the DOHC head on the 1.6 block, you will have to:
1. Find a timing belt that will accomodate the taller 1.6 block.
2. Use a thicker head gasket to reduce the compression ratio.
3. Recalibrate the oil pump to increase the oil pressure since the DOHC is running hydraulic lifters and require about 10psi more pressure.
4. Keep in mind your timing belt covers will need to be custom modified to keep the mud out!
5. Recalibrate the computer to make sure the air/fuel/timing will be ok.
6. The 1.6 bottom end is not as strong as the 1.3 as for high rpms. Redline is safe at 6500rpm.
7. You will need the 1.6 adapters to mount the Samurai tranny unless you are planning to run a 2wd Tracker tranny.

Since you already have the 1.3 DOHC sitting in your garage....

[The Grump]

Hmmmm.
We have been planning this swap for 2 winters now.

Dan is right, you have to slightly fabricate the firewall for the distributer, and same with the exhaust manifold.
Sammy flywheel and clutch can be used, it bolts on.
A tracker/sidekick altenator is better for this motor.
You need to relocate your motor mounts 1/2 inch i believe and you use the sidekick motor mounts.

Thats all I can say for now until I look over my notes. I don't want to get shafted for incorect information.

[jimny1000]

I got a DOHC sitting in my basement too....
Since the small truck is my daily driver and I drive about 150km everyday, I was so tempted to just do the swap. But been playing with the tape measure making sure it will fit and still want my interior heater(definetly a yes for those -40 mornings).
I had a few Swifts including a GTi and a 1999 G13B 16v. At high rpms, the DOHC is noticibly stronger....even when the DOHC have over 200,000km and the SOHC only have 50,000km.

[MuddMachine]

Dan, why would we need to recalibrate the computer ? Is the difference so great that it could not compensate for it on its own ?
Secondly HOW do we do this ? And how does one recalibrate the oil pump in a 1.6 block ?

[KAC]

My guess is a stiffer spring in the pressure relief in the pump or shim the stock spring.

[jimny1000]

KAC is correct, you can either change the oil pump relief valve spring to the DOHC spring or shim it.
As for the computer, you can still use it, but in order to get the full potential of the swap, you should calibrate it. There are a few different ways to do this. You can use an aftermarket chip, which could be custom programmed for the 1.6. Another way to do it is to use a airflow signal modifier. There are other chips out there which is basically a resistor that is placed inline with the air/coolant temperature sensor which "fools" the computer that the engine is still cold. The computer then will enrich the fuel mixture to compensate for the cold engine mode. (The computer is pulling the choke, if it is in simple terms.) I personally haven't use that before, but I think it is not really the best way since the computer may still be in the cold engine ignition timing curves, which is different than the normal running timing curve.
In this case, I would use the aftermarket airflow sensor signal modifier, which is an adjustable resistor which also fools the computer. To tune it easily, use a air/fuel ration gauge, which takes the reading from the O2 sensor.

[Shadow]

i might be "dating" myself here...but what ever happened to the easy in and out swaps?... the days when all you had to worry about was a coil wire and fuel...where'd they go?...:confused:


shadow

i think we need a spinning head smile because i know mine is spinning

[MuddMachine]

Originally posted by Shadow
i might be "dating" myself here...but what ever happened to the easy in and out swaps?... the days when all you had to worry about was a coil wire and fuel...where'd they go?...:confused:


shadow

i think we need a spinning head smile because i know mine is spinning

Shadow Im just a lil power hungry :ev:

Seriously speaking we could just drop a bigger mill in the rig but im really into this lightweight shit so milking it for every drop while still being semi reliable is always my end goal.

[jimny1000]

Sounds like you love rpms!!!:D

[drtysuzuk]

Originally posted by Shadow
i might be "dating" myself here...but what ever happened to the easy in and out swaps?... the days when all you had to worry about was a coil wire and fuel...where'd they go?...:confused:


shadow

i think we need a spinning head smile because i know mine is spinning

i here you!!! i dont have a spare 1.6 lying around, so to make things simple ishould take a BFH to my firewall stick with the 1.3 dohc, wiring harness, computer and all .its got to be stronger than the sohc. who needs toque when you have the rrrrs!!

drtysuzuk:yike

[MuddMachine]

Originally posted by jimny1000
Sounds like you love rpms!!!:D

Yes of course, I love my rpms :ev: I feel that if you cant clean your tires, theyre oversized. Another thing is that to micro-shift into second or third when in gooey mud, you need alot of power . Im not a big mud runner anymore but hey, we are in Ontario and mudd is a reality that isnt going away anytime soon.

[xfaktor]

Originally posted by jimny1000
If you decide to go with the DOHC head on the 1.6 block, you will have to:
1. Find a timing belt that will accomodate the taller 1.6 block.
2. Use a thicker head gasket to reduce the compression ratio.
3. Recalibrate the oil pump to increase the oil pressure since the DOHC is running hydraulic lifters and require about 10psi more pressure.
4. Keep in mind your timing belt covers will need to be custom modified to keep the mud out!
5. Recalibrate the computer to make sure the air/fuel/timing will be ok.
6. The 1.6 bottom end is not as strong as the 1.3 as for high rpms. Redline is safe at 6500rpm.
7. You will need the 1.6 adapters to mount the Samurai tranny unless you are planning to run a 2wd Tracker tranny.


I was the guy at suzican with the 1600 twin cam..

Yes I do have good torque and many many HP above 3500rpm, someone here might have see me in the sand pit :D

For all the points that you gived:
1-I can give PN for the t-belt you need..
2-Thats what is written at one place and everyone get confused. No, but you should use a 1.6 head gasket, the bore is a few tenth of inch wider.
3-I didnt toutche the oil pump, and I read numbers about the oil pressure and there is something like 3psi between the 1.6 and the 1.3b
4-Yup Duktape it or put some sheet metal to cover the gap.
5-Didnt toutch that. the air/fuel misture is good (as seen on the spark-plugs). but you'll need the oxygen sensor!
6-Yup I TRY to keep it under 6500RPM
7-Yup I used this common adaptor.

See me swap here (http://Pringles.xfaktor.net:8082/x-faktor/Projects/Suzuki/1600dohc/1600dohc.html)

[xfaktor]

Originally posted by jimny1000
Hi,
Just to keep in mind the distributor. You may have to use a BFH to dent a bit of the firewall to gain clearance since the distributor runs lengthwise.

Don't toutch the firewall!!

You can use a madza 323 GTX Distributor cap and rotor. With a few modification the fit is realy nice!!

http://pringles.xfaktor.net:8082/x-faktor/Projects/Suzuki/1600dohc/dist-firewall.jpg

[xfaktor]

I dont think that changing the oilpump relief valve spring would change much. that valve is there for the over-pressure, it is not a pressure regulator. Otherwise you would have consisten oil pressure in any temperature and RPM's.

I have took both oilpump apart. As I remember, the 1.6 have a bigger diameter and the 1.3bsmaller. That would tell me that the 1.3b is made to spin faster (higher revs) and the 1.6 made for higher flow(pressure) at lower RPMs.

[Superzuk]

Xfaktor, welcome aboard....
I saw you going up the pits.... with ease... :D


Your rig has power!!!

anyways, glad to see you on here...

BTW, I have a few pics of you on the quinn run.

[xfaktor]

Originally posted by Superzuk
Xfaktor, welcome aboard....

BTW, I have a few pics of you on the quinn run.

Thanks for the welcome! :)

Can you send then to me at xfak@cam.org plz ?

[MuddMachine]

4. Keep in mind your timing belt covers will need to be custom modified to keep the mud out!

Get rid of it altogether, Im only runnin the top half of my cover (just so you dont rub on it when reachin over the motor) A plus is no need to remove the crank pulley just to change the fawkin timing belt.

[lil beast]

hey x, took you long enough to get here. lol. i was the guy who helped you get goin after you rolled off the big rock. how is the engin runnin? :yike

[xfaktor]

lil beast I have to say a big thanks for thinking of the mass air flow. It might have took me some time to figure that out!!

Its gooing great, after that I fixed my crank key problem (not related to the roll-over)