No fire or gas 90 sidekick

[Canadsks]

I got a problem. My engine quit while driving on my 90 sidekick. I figured that it was "tired" so I changed it with an engine I had out of my 89 tracker. I plugged everything in since it was the same engine and I can't start it. The engine is good, but I have no fire at my plugs and no gas in the throttle body. I noticed today after numerous attempts to start it, that the service engine light was flashing 4 times, 1 second pause and flashing another time. It
then repeats the flashing process. I checked the wires and connections but to no avail. I disconnected the fuel line to the engine and the gas pumps through the line when the key is turned on, then stops. If I shut the key off and then back on, it pumps again for the second and shuts off. Poured gas in the tb, no start. I have power into the distributor ( 2 wires in to the distributor both have 12 volts). Power at the coil going in at 12 volts. I changed the relays under the dash with those from the tracker, the big shiny do-hickey under the dash (ecm I believe). I checked the fuses on the fuse block and the 3 under the hood but they are all fine. I have the 3 wires connected to the ground screw at the base of the distributor connected, the single ground wire at the thermostat housing connected and the main ground wire from the battery connected to the engine. What simple thing am I missing? I changed a little square plastic
thing with 3 wires underneath the brake filler with no luck (it was taped to the wires and attached to the firewall). I am lost. Any ideas on what this could be would be appreciated. (Oh, and of course, new plugs too.)

John

[Canadian_zuk]

I have power into the distributor ( 2 wires in to the distributor both have 12 volts).

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think only 1 wire should have power going into the dizy.

[longy442]

I had a similar prob with a 91 but it did run when I dumped gas down the throtle body, it would run for a second. I figured either injector or comp. but a 90 shouldn't have a computer problem. Are you sure there is spark? cause if you got spark and you dump in gas it should run a bit. As long as its timed right. not?

[Canadsks]

I am positive there is no spark. I cranked the engine over with no spark at all. I was puzzled about the 12 volts into the distributor with the 2 wires as well.

[Fullload]

Hmmm. your trouble code of flash 4 times and pause then flash one more time is the ignition signal. They say (haynes manual) to inspect and repair any damaged electrical connectorsand wires in the harness.
One thing i do not think you mentioned was the ground wire that goes to the firewall to the bottom of the dizzy. It is a black connector. double check that or even hard wire it (splice together) to rule out the possibility of a bad connection.
I know for a fact on the 89 model suzuki it uses a round style coil just like the samurai but i'm not sure about the 1990. I know for a fact that 1991 and up uses the square style coil with the ignitor and has a square style plug for each the ignitor and the coil.
You did not mention that there was a problem with matching the two dizzies to the same motor so i guess that is to rule out, but something to be aware of.
The reason why you get fuel when you turn the key for a few seconds is normal. It is just the fuel pump priming the system for fuel before you start it.
I think somewhere in the swap you may have tagged the coil wires somewhere and they are both touching together therefore giving you 12 volts on each side.
The little do-hickey that you replaced that was taped into the harness is your noise supressor. it takes out all the feedback to the distributor signal so that it is clean and it can read it. Sorta like a stereo noise filter or oe that you would use on a CB radio to take out all the engine whine you sometimes hear.
You seem to be on the right track but i think you have to go through the two dizzy wires with a fine tooth comb and look real close even if it means taking the harness apart inside the loom. This wire is easy to spot as it will be grey and shielded. Protected by a tinfoily plastic coating ( another way to get a clean signal.)
Good luck, and let us know what happens.

[Depot]

no spark and no fuel.. sounds like a puter problem to me. Id start with a known working ECm and sub that in.

gl

D

[Lucy]

I second Depot on this, best to rule out the puter before you drive yourself nuts trying to track down a wireing problem... been there done that

[Canadsks]

Ok, I know I am "another newbie punk" here, so this question won't seem out of line. Is the computer the 5" by 5" by 1" steel thing under the dash driver's side? I swapped it out for another one that works from the tracker but no change.

[Canadsks]

I found the problem. On the 89 tracker and 90 sidekick distributors, there are a black/white wires and a brown/white wires comming out of each. The difference between the 2 distributors is this: the wires are reversed in the plugs. When you plug in the plug from the dizzy to the harness, the wires do not match (hence black/white mate up to the brn/white and and vica versa. I cut and respliced the plug plug wires and it fired up immediately.

Now the only problem I have is the engine runs, but sputters before it takes off. The service engine light now flashes twice , a 1 sec. pause and flashes 2 more times. Any ideas on the problem? I figure it is a sensor of some kind, but no clue as to what it is this time.

John

[Fullload]

Ok so i was kinda right by the dizzies bieng different between the two years!!! but i did not know how. Your posts may say that you are a newbie punk but electrical troubleshooting sucks!!!
Here's your trouble code according to the haynes manual. Maybe someone will buy me the FSM for christmas Hint hint aybody???

OH OH i just read it it. 2 flashes pause 2 flashes says you have a bad TPS (throttle position sensor) You may be in luck tho. Besides checking adjustment and replacement they say after you fix the problem to disconnect the ground wire from the battery( i usually try 30 seconds and re-attach.) I suggest to do this even before you touch anything.
If it was just a faulty code and there is nothing wrong it will stay out. If it comes back check your connection again at the plug ( it is the 6 prong plug that wraps around the throttle body itself) and then re-adjust or replace. The reason i say OH OH is because they are finicky and they need a multimeter and a set of good feeler guages.
Try re-adjusting as a last resort after options on e and two and you will need to follow the manual step by step to set it up right again.
How long was the motor running when you were getting the stumbling before taking off? sometimes the ECM will need some time to adjust to all the sensors and re-learn what they all do. Sometimes the vehicle will even stall and do wierd stuff until it re-learns the nessesary info.
Good luck and keep us updated.