PDA

View Full Version : Toyota axels on my 88 1/2?



SimpleSam
December 11th, 2004, 05:44 PM
I know i'm gonna regret this but......I just aquired a set of Toyota 5:29's. Has anyone got experience with this mod. Looking for some suggestions before I make the big switch.

KAC
December 11th, 2004, 06:52 PM
What do ya want to know?...Fire away with the Questions :bringiton

SimpleSam
December 11th, 2004, 07:17 PM
Should I stick with the yota springs or switch to ****?
What is the ideal placement of the axels(forward and back)?
What hazzards should I look for (or mistakes to avoid)?

KAC
December 11th, 2004, 07:47 PM
In my opinion go with yj springs...as far as ahead or back that's up to you. What tire size are you planning on running?..I would definetly push my front axle ahead to keep the tires out of the fire wall.Just my 2 cents

SimpleSam
December 11th, 2004, 07:51 PM
Thanx,
Just read MLC string from when he converted his. I noticed on 1 of your strings you already installed the toy ps and so did he. what years toyo will i find this on? Gonna visit the bone yard this week, wanna be prepared. :)

KAC
December 11th, 2004, 08:50 PM
86+up...Toyota 4x4's with IFS suspension...get the pump and hoses too...MLC used a kick pump....i used a modified toy on my VW diesel

Chris (SANDS)
December 13th, 2004, 12:11 PM
Also , if your gonna go yj springs I would give some thought to imbounding them. That way if you go with bigger tires you wont rub as much in the turns, not to mention the extra flex you will get out of them. Im bringing mine in 2" onto the frame and the front axle ahead bout an inch. The only thing you have to watch is the inside u-bolt on the front axle pass side. Gets real close to the pumpkin and you have to cut your spring plate to fit around it. Another fix would be wheel spacers i guess, i just like the idea of staying skinny. Just my 2 cents too.

Canadian_zuk
December 13th, 2004, 12:48 PM
Also , if your gonna go yj springs I would give some thought to imbounding them. That way if you go with bigger tires you wont rub as much in the turns, not to mention the extra flex you will get out of them. Im bringing mine in 2" onto the frame and the front axle ahead bout an inch. The only thing you have to watch is the inside u-bolt on the front axle pass side. Gets real close to the pumpkin and you have to cut your spring plate to fit around it. Another fix would be wheel spacers i guess, i just like the idea of staying skinny. Just my 2 cents too.


With Toyota axles you already have to move the pass sping perche up against the pumpkin with springs in stock location. to inboard both sides 2" is gonna be alot of work. you'd probably have to shorten the driverside a couple of inches then move that perch in 4". Now your talkin custom length d-Side axle and wheel spacers just to ge you back to toyota width. Too much work IMHO. If yer lookin for flex like that go coils & links.

Chris (SANDS)
December 13th, 2004, 01:22 PM
Whoops I guess i should read the thread too eh... :bang: for some reason i thought you were still using stock sami axles not toys. :gsmo: i gotta lay off the heavy fuel first thing in the morning. Yes with toys its a hole new ballpark ur playing with there.

KAC
December 13th, 2004, 03:50 PM
Don't pay any attention to Chris :shame:

MuddMachine
December 13th, 2004, 04:47 PM
Why not cut a notch into the housing, cap it and then put the spring pad where u want it :question:

:dsm:

Fullload
December 13th, 2004, 05:38 PM
Why not cut a notch into the housing, cap it and then put the spring pad where u want it :question:

:dsm:

Thats a good idea as well. I would have loved to have that option but the E-Locker had way to much in the way as it was.

Canadian_zuk
December 13th, 2004, 06:58 PM
Why not cut a notch into the housing, cap it and then put the spring pad where u want it :question:

:dsm:

There is 1" between the stock toyota spring perch and the cast pumpkin. move 3/4" in to match stock Sami spring locations. This leaves you with 1/4" of room before your cutting into the pig. You could probably do it but now your cutting into the mounting surface. I don't see how you could inboard your springs any more than 1/4". to inboard 2" on the pass side is ALOT of work. Hell 1" would be alot of work. Not to mention there would be no way to get a Ubolt around that side. You would have to clamp the spring pack between two plates for sure. I don't think the gains will offset the labour. BTW I've taken all measurements, this is something I was considering. It's not worth it IMHO.

But I like your thinking outside the box!

SimpleSam
December 16th, 2004, 03:39 PM
Ok all,
I had a slight detour on way to installing the axels. My vehicle would not pass california smog. I was told it was a carb problem and seeing as its the dreaded feedback carb i spent hours trying to diagnose it. Turns out not to be the carb just bad rings. Compression 120 cold---165 hot. Time for sidekick motor (my wife would kill me)? :)

SimpleSam
December 16th, 2004, 03:51 PM
Any way didn't mean to change the thread. The fronts will go outboard and the rears normal. I lucked out the rear axel it came with a TRD locker, but the fronts stock. I'm having a local shop fabricate a custom "c" sections to wrap on the front frame rails to extend them and a friend and I are fabricating a new front bumper (that will hold the front spring mounts).

MuddMachine
December 16th, 2004, 05:51 PM
I dont like the idea of outboarded springs. You lose flex (maybe not much but some) and you risk tire rub unless you have a heavy offset rim.

Canadian Zuk.... I dont understand as to why you think it's so much work, to me, modifying the housing would be easier and quicker.

KAC
December 16th, 2004, 06:21 PM
This is my front housing.Where it went under an 85(inboarded) I modified my pumkin section to accomadate the springs.

Depot
December 16th, 2004, 08:34 PM
[QUOTE=MuddMachineCanadian Zuk.... I dont understand as to why you think it's so much work, to me, modifying the housing would be easier and quicker.[/QUOTE]

I was wondering bout this suggestion f urs.. how would u suggest modifying the housing anyhow??? If u start digging into that circle, then u have to modify ur third and possible drill and tap now holes to bolt the third on if u have the space.... please clarify how u mean.


D

MuddMachine
December 17th, 2004, 06:24 AM
I was wondering bout this suggestion f urs.. how would u suggest modifying the housing anyhow??? If u start digging into that circle, then u have to modify ur third and possible drill and tap now holes to bolt the third on if u have the space.... please clarify how u mean.


D

Cut a notch into the pumpkin, 3/4" wont put you into the 3rd.

KAC
December 17th, 2004, 07:09 AM
Cut a notch into the pumpkin, 3/4" wont put you into the 3rd.

Check out my py pic....that's what I did

Depot
December 17th, 2004, 11:08 AM
hey KAC, got a pic of the third installed on that?

D

Canadian_zuk
December 17th, 2004, 05:29 PM
I dont like the idea of outboarded springs. You lose flex (maybe not much but some) and you risk tire rub unless you have a heavy offset rim.

Canadian Zuk.... I dont understand as to why you think it's so much work, to me, modifying the housing would be easier and quicker.


What do you mean you don't understand? Chris(SANDS) was talking about inboarding 2" on the Sami frame. you already have to move the spring perches in just to match the stock sami location. to go another 2" would put you well into the cast pumpkin. I just went and measured again. From the stock Yota perch to the cast pumkin is only 7/8". you could notch this far only without digging into the pumpkin. minus the 3/4" already needed to match the stock Sami spring location gives you 1/8" of inboard. Now I see in that pic of KAC's a plat has been welded ontop of the yota spring perch. This added height will give you some more room to go further in without hitting the pumpkin. BUT YOUR NEVER GOING TO INBOARD 2" ON A SAMI WITH TOYOTA AXLES! That is what I said was too much work! Unless you want to weld some huge block onto yer perch.

Canadian_zuk
December 17th, 2004, 05:34 PM
Hey KAC, do you have a pic of that housing with the spring pack mounted? How much further inboard is your spring pin from the stock Yota perch center?

MuddMachine
December 17th, 2004, 05:35 PM
BUT YOUR NEVER GOING TO INBOARD 2" ON A SAMI WITH TOYOTA AXLES! That is what I said was too much work! Unless you want to weld some huge block onto yer perch.

WAS THINKIN OF THE 3/4" TO RUN THEM UNDER YOUR SAMI ! NOT THE 2" :thefinger eASIER TO MOVE THE PERCH RATHER THAN YOUR SPRING.

know what I mean :question:

Canadian_zuk
December 17th, 2004, 05:45 PM
WAS THINKIN OF THE 3/4" TO RUN THEM UNDER YOUR SAMI ! NOT THE 2" :thefinger eASIER TO MOVE THE PERCH RATHER THAN YOUR SPRING.

know what I mean :question:

All clear now dude. You understand what I was sayin bout too much werk? I had to re-read the whole thread just to figure out where the confusion started! LOL.

I agree with you, if you just want to stuff em under, then of course move the perchs. but to inborard leafs 2" on a yota axle? Just go coil if flex means that much to you.

KAC
December 17th, 2004, 05:46 PM
Hey KAC, do you have a pic of that housing with the spring pack mounted? How much further inboard is your spring pin from the stock Yota perch center?

I'll grab MLC's camera tomorroow and get some pics.My 85 front springs are directly under the frame like an SJ410...so that's how far I moved my spring pads.

MLC
December 18th, 2004, 11:28 AM
u got the camera ....where is the pic.....LOL

MLC
December 18th, 2004, 03:41 PM
here is the pics of the toy axle installed

TheSarg
December 18th, 2004, 05:25 PM
Not to hijack but im having the exact same issues with the hybrids under the LJ, that pic just helped me decide how to do it, perfect idea thanks guys.

MLC
December 18th, 2004, 07:13 PM
no prob. man ;)

KAC
December 18th, 2004, 07:46 PM
Not to hijack but im having the exact same issues with the hybrids under the LJ, that pic just helped me decide how to do it, perfect idea thanks guys.

Dude just ask...that housing's coming out when I go to coils...and elocker(someday)

SimpleSam
December 19th, 2004, 07:37 PM
This is The Best Suzuki forum! I was going to go the simple route seeing as how I had a pretty good offset on my wheels. After looking at all the photos and looking at my axels I'll keep the factory location and notch the housing. I'm busy re-ringing the motor, the front axel is out and the front frame extensions are currently being welded. Thanks for the help guys and as I make progress (or mistakes :roll: ) I'll know where to go.

Mudball
December 19th, 2004, 07:53 PM
Hmm this has given me some inspiration for how to mount my leaf pack on my new narrowed front end. Thanks guys!

Sammi wide front axle, on a narrow frame dimensioned wide frame chassis. I thought the leaf was gonna have to sit on the pumpkin. :jam: WOO!

(Pardon my enthusiasm: I will be able to steer my 14" boggers without hitting the leafs now)

KAC
December 19th, 2004, 09:09 PM
Just Nova Scotia Newfy enginnering :drunk:

MLC
December 19th, 2004, 09:23 PM
LOL.... :thefinger

zc911
December 19th, 2004, 10:19 PM
i am doing the same with my toy axles. I guy on Pirate acutally sent me CAD draings of the plate, and i had a friend cut them. Should work nice. I havn't got them on yet though. He had pics of them on.
Same idea as the above pic. Weld this onto the spring pad and use some grade 8 bolts to hold the spring on
It's also mesured out to work with the Rocky Road JPEater kit
actually here is the drawing

Canadian_zuk
December 20th, 2004, 01:41 PM
That's what I was goin to do. Here's pics of those plates installed.