custom drivesaft

[stress]

ihave done a spring over on a samurai this past week and installed a complete sidekick rear end i made my own rear shaft ihave it all straight and true but i have a bad driveline vibration and noise,all was good before the conversion.it has the 6 inch breeze perches and i know the driveshaft is on quite a angle but i may have to make another shaft cv shaft maybe? any suggestions i would appreciate them.

[off_your_rocker]

is the vibration in the front or the rear? i ran almost the same set up for years withthe tracker rear end with the tracker coils and all and it would vibrate when you let off the go pedal. the only way to fix that was to put in a ujoint that has mor travle or a cv. the best way around it all i think is a toyota shaft. they have big u joints and you can get a cv shaft that practially bolts on. good luck:beer:

[Mud Lite]

did you have the driveshaft ballanced?
is it in phase?
are the angles the same at top and bottom?

[stress]

the driveshaft is in phase and the angles are the same at both ends,it vibrates at lower speeds then goes away as you speed up, when you get into 4 or 5 gear and let off it vibrates badly and get a very loud grinding noise from the transfer case area. i am going to try and make a cv shaft to try to eliminate it

[off_your_rocker]

that sounds exactly the same as mine used to. try a cv but make sure they are bigger u-joints that except more angle without vibrating:beer:

[Depot]

Originally posted by stress
it vibrates badly and get a very loud grinding noise from the transfer case area.

I've had that problem with my zuk ever since i first lifted it... when not under load it shakes the hell outta the truck... i checked every bearing I had.. all my angles, etc.. nothing worked... it went away when i put in new driveshafts - u-joints both ends with different angles and double offset in the rear (toy axels, centered diff) still no problem... it wasnt untill i burned off that blue coating on the splines to unsieze my shafts that the vibrtations came back.. as it turns out.. it is the slop in the splines of the drivshafts themselves that caused all that vibration in my truck. give that a check


D

[MuddMachine]

Originally posted by Mud Lite
did you have the driveshaft ballanced?


Stress answer this question.....

[Dxray]

Originally posted by Depot
it wasnt untill i burned off that blue coating on the splines to unsieze my shafts that the vibrtations came back.. as it turns out.. it is the slop in the splines of the drivshafts themselves that caused all that vibration in my truck. give that a check


D

Thats gone on my rear drive shaft, there is play in it and a take off shudder. Can you buy the blue casing and like heatshrink it on or bring it to a shop?

[Depot]

dunno... i live with the vibes cause now my shafts dont sieze up when i pack em full of mudd and neglect to clean em for a decade :)

the blue stuff was nice when the shaft was brand new but just a little bit of crap and they can get jammed in under compression and not let go. had that happen last year after a jump and wound up pulling my t-case forward almost 2 inches ripping 2 of the mounts cause the front shaft wouldnt extend after landing.


D

[drtysuzuk]

i also have the same noise and vibrationwhen you come off the throttle and when i start off depot is right its in the spline....i find if i pack it well with grease it,s not quite as bad doesnt last very long though.....dont think running a cv joint is going to cure it....i try not to come out of the throttle too fast and it keeps the vibration to a minimum:beer:

[Depot]

actually i find the best way to stop that rattle is to either be on the gas all the time (shuddap peanut gallery) or let off really hard.. that way the shafts are always under load.. accelerating or decelerating.. taht way u just get a quick ratlle in between.. but coasting down a street never did put enough load to stop the rattle.. but aired down to 8 psi on the trail sure does...


D

[stress]

ihave not had the shaft balanced yet,as it will vibrate at very low speeds,today i put the slipyoke at the rear and cut the shaft in half then cut a cv shaft out of a corsica used the outer joint,as it has 5 balls inside instead of the inner which only has three. i measured it all up installed it i have little noise now but still a bit of vibration i could live with,i might try a double carden at the diff from a front shaft out a 4 runner. thank you for all your replies

[drtysuzuk]

depot you,re right again!! i didnt here any noise at all other than the motor screaming as you flew through the air!!!then all was silent when you planted her in the bank. you,ve got one tough rig to take the pounding you you dish out:yike :yike

[Fullload]

Not tough!!!!! Just "Depot Engineered" :upy: Oh yeah the only thing that isn't tough is the sheet metal and thats because Depot had nothing to do with the engineering of that. The rock won this battle!!!!!!

[Depot]

yep rock won that battle.. but mind u.. my passenger walked outta that unscaved and i will take credit for the depot engineerred instalation of those seats. besides... i never said i knew how to drive did I?????


:upy: :upy:


D

[AkDale]

I have been researching this problem and have arrived at the following conclusion.
For a regular 2 joint D/S, the rear pinion needs to be paralell to the T-case shaft.

For the Double cardian shaft, The pinion shaft needs to be aimed directly at the flange on the t-case.

As we all know, a spoa creates more spring wrap than the spua.
At rest, the flanges may be pointing where they are supposed to.
When under load, the axle assembly flexes the springs and the pinion flange rotates either up or down and becomes mis-alligned with the t-case flange-- Vibrations

I have these same problems with mine. This winter I am going to fab up an anti torque setup for my rear axle. IMHO

[stress]

i finished installing the rear shaft.i used a front shaft out a 1988 4 runner,i shortened it 3 inches and drilled out the end flanges to clear the pinion nuts.i have no vibrations even with the offset tracker rear end works very well :) :)

[AkDale]

Very cool,
Which end did you put the Double cardian on?

[stress]

i put the double carden at the transfer case.if you have 88.5 and up flanges it will bolt up you have to make the centering ring about 3-4 mill smaller or open up the pinion flange.if you have small flanges you need to mark and drill new holes

[rockrat]

Originally posted by stress
i put the double carden at the transfer case.if you have 88.5 and up flanges it will bolt up you have to make the centering ring about 3-4 mill smaller or open up the pinion flange.if you have small flanges you need to mark and drill new holes

IF you have small flanges the DC end will never FIt on the small flange

[stress]

it will work on the small flanges,im using a small flange on the transfer case now,two bolt holes are half a bolt width out crossways and the other two are a full bolt width out.you modify the toyota shaft and keep everything straight it does work.

[stress]

as long as you use the centering ring properly on the flange and keep everything straight when you modify the toyota flange you can use the smaller flange,it is a lot more work and it has to be dead on or it will have to much runout and will shake

[stress]

never say something will not fit,a mig a torch a sawzall and a carbide cutting bits and a some knowledge anything can be done

[Depot]

Originally posted by stress
never say something will not fit,a mig a torch a sawzall and a carbide cutting bits and a some knowledge anything can be done


DUDE!!!! :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:

:D


Depot

[MuddMachine]

Fine line between makin it work and butchering it tho :D

[stress]

thats true,unless you have experience shortening shafts and modifying pieces that are rotating and that have to be true it can go to **** very quickly.