FJ60 TRE options

[MuddMachine]

OK, got meself a 60 box. Want to put it on my histeer and make my own drag link and tie rod. Im thinking of using domestic TRE's cuz they're cheap and I can go 1.5 ton, 3/4 or 1 ton. Why? Cuz I have a tapered reamer and getting the links tapped for a left and right in UNC or UNF threads shouldnt be a problem. I believe the toy and domestic TRE's dont have the same taper. If I run the taper thru the fj60 box will it end up being too big for the TRE ???

[MuddMachine]

Answer me god dammit :rant:


Bunch o' cowfawkers :thefinger

[TheSarg]

Me no speakie engrish!

[vanbdan]

Answer me god dammit :rant:


Bunch o' cowfawkers :thefinger

there's that leather reference again!
van:hubba:

[SamiFlyer]

If you want to see some Toy TREs and compare them to the domestic stuff I have some at the shop. I can pull one off and compare it to one from my D44 but I have no 1 ton stuff. I'll post pics by wednesday if ya haven't fingered it out by then.


Sean :cool:

[Fullload]

I run a 60 box but haven't the foggiest on what the taper will do when you change it to a domestic.
All i know is that an IFS RE will not go into the 60 taper. The 60 is bigger.

[MuddMachine]

All i know is that an IFS RE will not go into the 60 taper. The 60 is bigger.

Thats about what Ive figured out.

[Fullload]

Thats about what Ive figured out.


Change to an IFS pitman arm. That way you get less of a drop ( the 60 drop is huge for a sammy) and you get the same hole taper.
Don't waste your time and heat it or you'll blow your seal and we broke a snap on pitman arm puller trying to get mine off.

It worked alot better just to cut it.

[fullsizeguy]

dont the ifs pitman have the RE built into it ?
I,ve read some where cut fill and retaper on the ifs . I'll i can offer is a check of the differences between a fj80 RE and domestic, i think i got a ford pitman around here somewhere. Ron

[Fullload]

dont the ifs pitman have the RE built into it ?



Your right. I made my drag link to suit.

[MuddMachine]

Your right. I made my drag link to suit.

Lets see it. That might not be the ticket to what Im after.

[Fullload]

Lets see it. That might not be the ticket to what Im after.


If it's not the ticket than why you need to see????


I did this after the inital build so i have no pickies. Maybe depot will be nice enough to put down the R&C and take one for you.

All my drag link is. Passanger side has threaded rod end in factory toyota steering arm. ( dom was cut and tapped by me. I have the right and left tap needed. it is the M17x1.50) smaller size than the 85 and the FJ80's which are the M22x1.50 i belive, but the actual TRE are the same taper. Then up at the pitman arm side i cut an IFS center link or something with the tapered hole and ground the arm part down on the bench grinder to fit inside the DOM,roset welded and welded the end. This way the tapered hole slides into the TRE on the actual pitman arm, which is non replaceable on the IFS pitman arms.

Plenty strong,has not let me down but maybe when the TRE wears out I'll just torch it out drill a straight hole and run a Heim. 5/8 x 3/4-16 rod end that i will be running on the links i think is way over kill so may use a smaller top of the line heim with the best static load i can get.

we will see.

[MuddMachine]

If it's not the ticket than why you need to see????I said ''might not" be the ticket. Once I'll see, I'll know :thefinger Actually, now that you explained it in a lil more detail, I understand. I dont have a tapered reamer for a yota TRE but do for Dana TRE's. Right and left hand threads arent a problem for the dana stuff and neither is the taper. This would make the job a piece of cake if I knew that I could rebore the pitman with the dana reamer and not be too big. Is the sami and yota taper the same angle???

I dont want a heim for my steering tho. Im not big on heims like the ones we're talkin about.





5/8 x 3/4-16 rod end that i will be running on the links i think is way over kill so may use a smaller top of the line heim with the best static load i can get.Your steering will see a shitload of stress, I wouldnt call it overkill. Use the 5/8. I doubt it would break or wear out on your steering.

[SamiFlyer]

Plenty strong,has not let me down but maybe when the TRE wears out I'll just torch it out drill a straight hole and run a Heim. 5/8 x 3/4-16 rod end that i will be running on the links i think is way over kill so may use a smaller top of the line heim with the best static load i can get.

we will see.

I think the heim would be fine but the pitman arm would be the weak point since the heim would be held in single shear. Now if the pitman arm were made like a heim bracket, so that both sides of the heim are supported (double shear), the whole thing would be more than twice as strong.


Sean :cool:

[Fullload]

I said ''might not" be the ticket. Once I'll see, I'll know :thefinger Actually, now that you explained it in a lil more detail, I understand. I dont have a tapered reamer for a yota TRE but do for Dana TRE's. Right and left hand threads arent a problem for the dana stuff and neither is the taper. This would make the job a piece of cake if I knew that I could rebore the pitman with the dana reamer and not be too big. Is the sami and yota taper the same angle???


If your determined to go that route than torch out the IFS TRE and then weld in the hole thats left ( i know that you can do that) and then re-drill and taper to meet your domestic needs.


I dont want a heim for my steering tho. Im not big on heims like the ones we're talkin about.

I know your thoughts on this but c'mon i'm not street driving this thing and people use heims on thier double ended hydro rams all the time, so i really don't see it really bieng an issue. They will be a top of the line heim and not a PA tractor joint either.




Your steering will see a shitload of stress, I wouldnt call it overkill. Use the 5/8. I doubt it would break or wear out on your steering.[/QUOTE]

[Fullload]

I think the heim would be fine but the pitman arm would be the weak point since the heim would be held in single shear. Now if the pitman arm were made like a heim bracket, so that both sides of the heim are supported (double shear), the whole thing would be more than twice as strong.


Sean :cool:


I see what your saying. I had an idea of how to get around it while keeping the Heim center of the Pitman arm to slpit the loads as you suggest, but half way through typing it i shot the idea to hell!!!
i'll figure something out but if not i'll have to trust the stock design for now, or just go full hydro and not worry:D