Timing mark on Crank shaft???

[1v6pony]

OK I have a 1.0 engine and I am checking the timeing belt, the crank shaft does not have a mark like the cam does, Is the keyway on the crank the timing mark???
should both marks be 12 Oclock straight up and down or should both of the marks be parralel kind of to the side of 12 o clock as they are not on top of one another but offset.

Thanks Guys.

[1v6pony]

wow 15 people have looked and no one knows...:(

[TheSarg]

If yer tryin to find TDC then just do it old school by takin a plug out and the valve cover off, then make yer own timing mark

[1v6pony]

thanks Sarge, i understand the theory behind what you are saying, but what will I be looking for? is there more detailed info on the old school way?

[TheSarg]

Well i'll tell you how i do it then maybe some others can chime in and add something.

I take the #1 spark plug out n grab a coat hanger, i take the valve cover off so i can see how the valves are opening and closing. For each piston there are 2 valves, once you see how the intake runs into the head and where the exhaust ports are set its easy to define which are intake and which are exhaust.

What you need to to is rotate the engine the same way it runs, the coat hanger is to feel how far up the piston is in the cylinder, this isnt a zero clearance motor so it wont pinch the coat hanger and break a piece in there, there is room, just go slow n be gentle. While you feel the piston coming up, watch the valves, you want the intake valve to be open on the upwards piston stroke, once you get to the top (by feel of the coat hanger) the intake valve should be just closing, this means you are on the power stroke, the intake valve just put air/fuel into the combustion chamber (if it was running).

If the intake valve is not opening as it rises you are 180 degrees out and must continue rotating the engine.

It works in my brain and ive done it, but im always bad at writing things down and giving explinations, so wait till somebody else posts up that whut i wrote is correct, as i tend to goof up my words :)

Once you got it set bang on, mark yer crank pulley and yer cover in the same place so u can now recognize TDC at a later date.

[1v6pony]

Ok maybe I am not explaining what I am tring to do... Sarge, If what you say is correct, and the valves are not in sync, then what to I do?, move the belt one tooth at a time till all sync correct????

Again: the crank has no timing mark on it for the timing belt, the cam does how do I know at what position to set the crank so that it is at the 12 o clock position with out a timing mark??? I am trying to determine if the belt has skipped a tooth , if it has I need to set it correct.....

[1v6pony]

OK.. I think I started to understand this.
the 1.3 has the timing marks on the cover, if the pulley mark is lined up on the O degree then the crank is at 12 O clock.
On the 1.0 the timing mark is on the right side of the engine at the flywheel, so if that mark is on 0 degres then the crank is lined up at 12 oclock and I can just make a mark on the pulley for future refrence... Does this sound right????

[Canadian_zuk]

OK.. I think I started to understand this.
the 1.3 has the timing marks on the cover, if the pulley mark is lined up on the O degree then the crank is at 12 O clock.
On the 1.0 the timing mark is on the right side of the engine at the flywheel, so if that mark is on 0 degres then the crank is lined up at 12 oclock and I can just make a mark on the pulley for future refrence... Does this sound right????

yup. That'll work. 1.3 is the same, timing marks are on the flywheel too. I alway time to the flywheel mark, not the front pulley (all my timing covers tend to be distorted and I don't trust the front pulley to be accurate).

BTW, what is the problem anyway? Are you just checking everything out or are you having issues? If I knew what the problem was, it may help to get you a solution faster.

If you just want a mark on the front pully, you don't need to look at the valves at all. Just use Sarge's coathanger method and turn the crank until the piston is at TDC. TDC on the power stroke is still TDC on the exhaust stroke. (remember the crank spins twice for every revolution of the cam)

[1v6pony]

thanks for the support, Here is the trouble I am having.

It seems to idel fine well a little rough, but as soon as you take your foot of the clutch and try to drive it, it will stall out. I checked the fuel pump and it is putting out fuel OK, I changed the filter it had lots of small chunks of stuff in it... So now I want to check the timing, if that is OK, I plan to check the Compression. any other Ideas????

[Canadian_zuk]

...as soon as you take your foot of the clutch and try to drive it, it will stall out. I changed the filter it had lots of small chunks of stuff in it... So now I want to check the timing, if that is OK, I plan to check the Compression. any other Ideas????

Yeah, clean the carb. Sounds to me like you've got a blocked jet. or your parking brake is on :rofl: J/K

[1v6pony]

Ok here is what I found out so FAR..
With the #1 piston at the top of the compresion stroke ,the #1 on the distrbitor and the O- degree on the flywheel... The cam instead of being at 12 oclock is at 4.75 O'clock WOW... WAYOFF

So my question is do I just remove the timing belt and turn only the cam clockwise until it is at 12??? or do I have to do something else in order to turn it to 12 o'clock??? Thanks

[Canadian_zuk]

Yup, there is a belt tensioner under the timing cover, but you may be able to slide the belt off the cam gear without touching it. Make sure both valve stems are positioned at the lowest place on the cam lobe. Put your belt back on and make sure nothing moved.

[1v6pony]

OK I moved the cam gear to 12 oclock now the Distribotor is at the #4 location... Do I need to take the dist off and re stab it so that it is on the #1 location???

[Canadian_zuk]

OK I moved the cam gear to 12 oclock now the Distribotor is at the #4 location... Do I need to take the dist off and re stab it so that it is on the #1 location???


yes, that's how you time the dizzy. When the dizzy's driven gear engages the drive gear, the rotor will move. You'll have to move the rotor out of alignment, then slide it in. You'll see what I mean when you pull it out.

[1v6pony]

OK.. Now it wont start, it will crank..

here is what I did:
Flywheel at 0 Degrees
Cam at 12 o clock
pulled dist out and reset so that it would be pointing at the #1 plug
put it all back together...

Now it wont start, any ideas... it always started before....

[TheSarg]

Why do i remember the cam pulley being at 6 o clock and not 12, anyone got a FSM they can look at?

[Mudslug]

um maybe try www.lj10.com and take a look at the LJ80 service manual they have listed of download on their site. I know its not the same motor but if i remember correctly the 1.0l was a bored 800cc.

I have the factory SJ manual somewhere I can look it out when I get home

Thanks

[1v6pony]

did you find out anything on the factory service manual????

Also I pulled the head as it has a blown heasd gasket between the #2 and #3 piston.... Are these motors worth rebuilding cost wise, I dont know what else might be wrong with it, my other option is some type of V-6, You just cant find any 1.6 16valves for a decent price here.