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Gadzooks
November 27th, 2006, 10:39 AM
Just failed my e-test. Brand new exhaust set-up front to back, I'm assuming its my crappy carb thats doing it. Other than the inevitable EFI swap, (that is coming soon), does anyone have any tricks I might be able to try on my re-test?? Two discounted tries before I get my EFI swap done, would rather wait till after Christmas for that!!
Any suggestions??
thanks

Loco
November 27th, 2006, 10:55 AM
How are those other carbs you have? Would one of them be better? Maybe try to set one up to run lean, wouldn't drive the best but might help you to pass the e-test. New plugs and wires wouldn't hurt either. Also, you said you have new exhaust front to back so I assume that means you have a new cat, right? That's what has always caused my vehicles to fail.
Good Luck on the re-test J.D.

Loco

COZICAN
November 27th, 2006, 11:36 AM
YOU CAN ALSO RETARD YOUR TIMING A LITTLE BIT. I HAVE DONE THIS TO GET SOME OF MY STUFF TO PASS.

fullspectrum
November 27th, 2006, 01:04 PM
Try putting a few bottles of gas line antifreeze(alchohol) in the tank just before the test...and make sure you get the catylitic converter nice and hot. Then make sure they take the car in for the test right away.

Gadzooks
November 27th, 2006, 01:56 PM
Hmmm, Nice and hot>??? So just run the bad boy hard right before I go in, and idle it while I wait ? Sounds like a plan. I'll give it a shot and see what it does. No harm in trying.
thanks

gobig
November 27th, 2006, 05:21 PM
i hope your oil was fresh too, old oil, or dirty oil will fail.
i always do an oil change before an etest, a little gas line antifreeze, new plugs if any doubt about them.always do the test hot.most cars that run a one wire O2 sensor, or none at all need to be hot.
what year are you trying to get to pass?

GearHead
November 27th, 2006, 06:04 PM
did it fail the idel test or the astm### (at speed) test? or both

I hear Colman stove fuel works pretty good, run the tank dry and then add the camp fuel. never tried it.

I retarded the timming a bit and also descretly pluged the vacuum advance

I'm so glad the zuks and 85 and it never needs another etest

later
steve

Evolvocane
November 27th, 2006, 06:54 PM
Try putting a few bottles of gas line antifreeze(alchohol) in the tank just before the test...and make sure you get the catylitic converter nice and hot. Then make sure they take the car in for the test right away.


Yeah cause we got nothing better to do then a bloody e-test. Trust me. You tell them you want it done right away. They will put you on the back burner.

On carbed engines, all the gases are controlled by it... If its out of adjustment then its gonna fail. Dirty oil will affect your Nox readings to a point. 50-100 ppm. If its dirty. Its ability to dispurse the heat is compromised. CO% and HC and Nox are all primarly controlled through carb adjustments. I

You might get lucky and get it to pass on your own. But unless you have a five gas analizer your just going to be taking shots in the dark. One thing you can do is disconnect the vacum line going to the vacum advance on the dizzy.

Your best bet, if you want it to pass for sure is to pay your mechanic the 50-100 bux to diagnose it and get your pass.

I repeat. Do not tell them to do it right away. Ask them nicely. We make **** all on etests. So that just makes them a hassel for us. Good luck bro:)

TheSarg
November 27th, 2006, 06:59 PM
Yeah cause we got nothing better to do then a bloody e-test. Trust me. You tell them you want it done right away. They will put you on the back burner.

...and if every mechanic read the Government instructions for etests and implimented them every time, then every vehicle would be tested at operating temperature instead of cold, ooops are we not sposed to know that?

Evolvocane
November 27th, 2006, 07:16 PM
...and if every mechanic read the Government instructions for etests and implimented them every time, then every vehicle would be tested at operating temperature instead of cold, ooops are we not sposed to know that?


Thats why we have 90 secs of driving warm up time on the dyno to bring them to operating temp before the asm 2525 even begins. Hey hows your foot taste? good?:thefinger :thefinger :thefinger Know what your talking about when it comes to drive clean before you talk to me.

TheSarg
November 27th, 2006, 07:20 PM
shops wanna rifle them through fast cause they dont make money on them, and disregard the fact the book says they must be at operating temperature. is the 90 seconds gov stipulated or per shop instructions?

Im askin cause i dont know, so ditch the tude talk, my beef is with the whole etest bullshit to begin with, not you, so un-puff yer chest Mister CuteZook :ban:

oh yeah almost forgot:thefinger

Evolvocane
November 27th, 2006, 07:38 PM
shops wanna rifle them through fast cause they dont make money on them, and disregard the fact the book says they must be at operating temperature. is the 90 seconds gov stipulated or per shop instructions?

Im askin cause i dont know, so ditch the tude talk, my beef is with the whole etest bullshit to begin with, not you, so un-puff yer chest


I will un puff my chest when you check ur tude. You type or talk to people like that, expect a reaction. As far as the testing goes the warm up times are part of the program in the operating systems on the analizers. So you see on every test those engines are at operating temperature. Every test. We follow the guide lines to a ****ing tee! If we don't we get shut down for 6 months. Thats 6 months with 110 thousand dollar paper wieght.

All these people out there (you included it would seem) think drive clean is a cash grab and the techs doing it are screwing you. We have nothing to do with wether your vehical passes or fails. Yet we still get the full brunt of everyones shit when their car or truck fails.

I can tell you there is a problem with drive clean.. For sure there is. Its called the conditional pass. It should not exsist. If a vehical fails that should be it!
I will also tell you that most vehicals are spitting out about 0%-5% of the allowed limits. Thats 95% left for breathing room.. What that means is that if its failing there is a problem with the way the vehical is running. Like it or not thats the fact. I can explain to you in detail how drive clean works. What causes these vehicals to fail, what systems affect what gases. I can give you all that info. Infact I would like to. You should call me. But don't ever think we are the assholes. We are doing our jobs. We don't skip anything. If your vihical fails its becuase its not running properly. end of story. Sorry if thats harsh. But I'm a no bulshit kinda guy.

Sarge pm me and I will give ya my number. If your interested in it. I will explain it all to you. If not tonight. Tomorrow.

TheSarg
November 27th, 2006, 07:50 PM
Sure ill call u tomorrow and u can fill in the blanks, as i have issues with the operating temperature side of it.

And as far as acusing me of calling every etest technician an asshole, we even tho i bet most are, dont put words in my mouth i said i had issues with the whole thing in general i never once said anything even remotely close to it.


and ffs man, yer an accredited mechanic and apparently drive clean inspector its spelled VEHICLE!!

vanbdan
November 27th, 2006, 08:01 PM
Spelling lessons???

TheSarg
November 27th, 2006, 08:48 PM
lol its awl good, thanks for the info dude, i'll let u know soon as i know anything :D

Evolvocane
November 27th, 2006, 09:00 PM
Sure ill call u tomorrow and u can fill in the blanks, as i have issues with the operating temperature side of it.

And as far as acusing me of calling every etest technician an asshole, we even tho i bet most are, dont put words in my mouth i said i had issues with the whole thing in general i never once said anything even remotely close to it.


and ffs man, yer an accredited mechanic and apparently drive clean inspector its spelled VEHICLE!!

Sorry:) I was talking about people in general . See. People suck. It was good talking to ya man. Your good shit;)

SamiFlyer
November 27th, 2006, 09:15 PM
All these people out there (you included it would seem) think drive clean is a cash grab and the techs doing it are screwing you.

Yes and no. I realize that the shops doing the e-tests are not making a cent and I really don't think that anybody is getting screwed by those shops. However, the program is a complete cash grab for the feds.

Consider this.

-Drive Clean cost more than $1.1 billion since 1999.(to March 2004) Ontario drivers spent about $435 million on test fees and GST and a further $690 million for Drive Clean repairs, GST and provincial sales tax.

-In 2003, 99 per cent of all three-year-old vehicles passed on their first try. All told, $375 million went to have clean cars checked.

-In 2003, almost 98 per cent of all light-duty vehicles seven years of age and newer passed on their first try. It means that for a segment representing more than half of Ontario's vehicle population, fewer than three of every 100 cars and light trucks fail the Drive Clean test on the first attempt.

-Even for all vehicles 11 years old and newer, which represents about 80 per cent of the light-duty portion of Drive Clean, the first-time pass rate for 2003 was 93 per cent. Even two-thirds of 15-year-old cars passed the Drive Clean test on the first try last year.

If we look at the stats for all vehicles tested 15 years and newer, about 3.5 million, only about 60 000 have failed, about 17%. What this tells us is that the program would not be feasable if the government could not include the profit from testing all the newer cars it knows will pass! That is a money grab plain and simple! The gov. can sugar coat it all it wants. Further proof?

-Starting with the 1998 model year, Transport Canada required that new cars be equipped with computerized systems that turn on a dashboard light if there is a failure in the emissions control system. They essentially test themselves, and some U.S. states have abandoned tailpipe testing for newer cars, in favour of plugging into the onboard system and downloading the information stored there.

Instead of a big $110 000 paperweight, you could plug a simple hand-held $100 (but would still sell for $5000!!!) scanner that would tell you what is actually wrong with the vehicle.


Sean :cool:

Evolvocane
November 28th, 2006, 07:43 AM
Yes and no. I realize that the shops doing the e-tests are not making a cent and I really don't think that anybody is getting screwed by those shops. However, the program is a complete cash grab for the feds.

Consider this.

-Drive Clean cost more than $1.1 billion since 1999.(to March 2004) Ontario drivers spent about $435 million on test fees and GST and a further $690 million for Drive Clean repairs, GST and provincial sales tax.

-In 2003, 99 per cent of all three-year-old vehicles passed on their first try. All told, $375 million went to have clean cars checked.

-In 2003, almost 98 per cent of all light-duty vehicles seven years of age and newer passed on their first try. It means that for a segment representing more than half of Ontario's vehicle population, fewer than three of every 100 cars and light trucks fail the Drive Clean test on the first attempt.

-Even for all vehicles 11 years old and newer, which represents about 80 per cent of the light-duty portion of Drive Clean, the first-time pass rate for 2003 was 93 per cent. Even two-thirds of 15-year-old cars passed the Drive Clean test on the first try last year.

If we look at the stats for all vehicles tested 15 years and newer, about 3.5 million, only about 60 000 have failed, about 17%. What this tells us is that the program would not be feasable if the government could not include the profit from testing all the newer cars it knows will pass! That is a money grab plain and simple! The gov. can sugar coat it all it wants. Further proof?

-Starting with the 1998 model year, Transport Canada required that new cars be equipped with computerized systems that turn on a dashboard light if there is a failure in the emissions control system. They essentially test themselves, and some U.S. states have abandoned tailpipe testing for newer cars, in favour of plugging into the onboard system and downloading the information stored there.

Instead of a big $110 000 paperweight, you could plug a simple hand-held $100 (but would still sell for $5000!!!) scanner that would tell you what is actually wrong with the vehicle.


Sean :cool:
i will skip all the drive clean stuff go striaght to the scanner. There is a huge difference between a scanner and a code reader. A scanner has by directional control, scope, meter, and the software that allows it to communicate with the car. a code reader will show generic p codes. Also. I can't run an etest with a code reader.
Technically any vehical 2003 and up is more capable with all of its on board diagnostics, to me exactly what the problem is for the most part. Course when it flips the check engine light its up to the customer to bring it in and fix it. Since thats not gonna happen, etests are mandatory. As well safety checks are going to be in the next few years.

Now could you kindly explain to me how a code reader is going to do the etest for me, cause last I checked. drive clean hasnt designated it as an analizer? Dude. Call me:) Lemme tell you about drive clean, whats right and wrong with it. blah blah blah. pm me and I will give ya my number:thefinger :D

SamiFlyer
November 28th, 2006, 08:53 AM
The point is that e-tests shouldn't have included cars since 1998. I said shouldn't have because the rules have now been revised. The point is that so many e-test facilities aren't even needed because if the vehicle itself can tell if there is nothing wrong then 99 times out of 100 that vehicle will pass the e-test. I'm saying the vehicles whose on-board diagnostic says it has a problem with some part of the emissions system are the ones that need to be tested and those can be singled out with a hand-held scanner. It can be a code reader but even something hand-held can be a scanner. My background is in commercial electronics and network systems and currently I am a network administrator/technician for a school board so I know what is capable with todays electronics. You can have all the power and storage necessary to do a complete engine scan (not a full e-test) through a vehicle's on-board diagnostic port with a PDA and still have a cell phone, camera and MP3 player built-in! Of course this would only work on vehicles 1998 and newer who have the capability to monitor their emissions systems and that check would still be mandatory at whatever interval is mandated. But instead of having the shop do a full e-test on every vehicle it would first screen it to determine if it would even be a candidate.

In short, a hand-held device does not have to be an exhaust gas analyzer. It just has to analyze the vehicle emission system. If that fails then the vehicle would be subject to a full e-test. How can that not help everybody out except the government coffers?

I would gladly call you but this is an online discussion forum, not a party line. As much as it was beneficial for you and Sarge to have a talk, it doesn't help any of us reading this thread. The info needs to be posted here. I'm not trying to be a hard-ass about it, I'm just voicing my unbiased opinion. Unbiased because here in Sudbury there is no emissions testing done at this time and I have never been subject to one. I am viewing this issue as a complete bystander.

Besides, we can pass the tequila bottle around and talk again at Suzican.:D

Now maybe you can explain something to me that I don't know. How does a garage become selected to be an e-test site? From the sound of it, it doesn't seem like something a shop would want to sign up for. Just curious.


Sean :cool:

Memphis
November 28th, 2006, 09:13 AM
alky in gas tank = pass

You'll put out less emissions then an electric car AND you'll burn carbon deposits out of the cylinders :thefinger

Gadzooks
November 28th, 2006, 10:56 AM
Whoa, think I opened up a whole bag of shit that was unintended. However, one last question. My carb'd engine needs an EFI swap, and I plan on doing it soon, will this assist in my drive clean testing? and...to run my cat hot, will idling while i wait be sufficient? or do i need to drive at high speeds prior to my testing (which is next to impossible).
thanks for all the info on gov't reg'd testing. sorry for the intro to heated discussion #48.
cheers

vanbdan
November 28th, 2006, 11:18 AM
Don't be sorry,dude,it makes for great reading,plus very informative.

Evolvocane
November 28th, 2006, 01:14 PM
Whoa, think I opened up a whole bag of shit that was unintended. However, one last question. My carb'd engine needs an EFI swap, and I plan on doing it soon, will this assist in my drive clean testing? and...to run my cat hot, will idling while i wait be sufficient? or do i need to drive at high speeds prior to my testing (which is next to impossible).
thanks for all the info on gov't reg'd testing. sorry for the intro to heated discussion #48.
cheers

you need to run it down the road for the beds in the cat to react. Idle isnt enough to lite the cat. Especially if its weak.

Evolvocane
November 28th, 2006, 01:26 PM
The point is that e-tests shouldn't have included cars since 1998. I said shouldn't have because the rules have now been revised. The point is that so many e-test facilities aren't even needed because if the vehicle itself can tell if there is nothing wrong then 99 times out of 100 that vehicle will pass the e-test. I'm saying the vehicles whose on-board diagnostic says it has a problem with some part of the emissions system are the ones that need to be tested and those can be singled out with a hand-held scanner. It can be a code reader but even something hand-held can be a scanner. My background is in commercial electronics and network systems and currently I am a network administrator/technician for a school board so I know what is capable with todays electronics. You can have all the power and storage necessary to do a complete engine scan (not a full e-test) through a vehicle's on-board diagnostic port with a PDA and still have a cell phone, camera and MP3 player built-in! Of course this would only work on vehicles 1998 and newer who have the capability to monitor their emissions systems and that check would still be mandatory at whatever interval is mandated. But instead of having the shop do a full e-test on every vehicle it would first screen it to determine if it would even be a candidate.

In short, a hand-held device does not have to be an exhaust gas analyzer. It just has to analyze the vehicle emission system. If that fails then the vehicle would be subject to a full e-test. How can that not help everybody out except the government coffers?

I would gladly call you but this is an online discussion forum, not a party line. As much as it was beneficial for you and Sarge to have a talk, it doesn't help any of us reading this thread. The info needs to be posted here. I'm not trying to be a hard-ass about it, I'm just voicing my unbiased opinion. Unbiased because here in Sudbury there is no emissions testing done at this time and I have never been subject to one. I am viewing this issue as a complete bystander.

Besides, we can pass the tequila bottle around and talk again at Suzican.:D

Now maybe you can explain something to me that I don't know. How does a garage become selected to be an e-test site? From the sound of it, it doesn't seem like something a shop would want to sign up for. Just curious.


Sean :cool:

Yeah. I hate typing and have way too much info to actually type out. I will just say there are points I agree with ya on and I would love to explain all this but I will wait till I have the time. **** I have to go and diagnose a failure now lol.

MuddMachine
November 28th, 2006, 01:49 PM
Cutezuk, er... I mean, Evolvo :thefinger

You need to chill a bit and here's why...

The test is a fawkin scam. Not the mechanic doing it.

Now unfortuneatly, you are a mechanic. Mechanics are like cops in a way. Some are good and honest, wich you state you are. But alot of them are fawkin thieves. So many instances where I'd have shelled out alot of money if I didnt know whats goin on, then the machanic sayin "oh yeah, you're right".

From what I know of you, youre a cool shit. But you cant speak for all the mechanics cuz I lump them in with.. tow truck drivers, cops, lawyers and politicians. The mass are fawkin swines. Period. And the test is a GOVERNMENT scam. Argue till you are blue in the face, bottom line is the test is a GOV. scam.

Gadzooks
November 28th, 2006, 02:13 PM
Sweet! down the road it is, Now if I can only get the inspector to let me drive up and down the road till he's ready to let me pull it right up to the machine!! We'll see how this goes.
Thanks for the assistance. Does make for some informative, entertaining reading thats for sure!!

Evolvocane
November 28th, 2006, 07:02 PM
Cutezuk, er... I mean, Evolvo :thefinger

You need to chill a bit and here's why...

The test is a fawkin scam. Not the mechanic doing it.

Now unfortuneatly, you are a mechanic. Mechanics are like cops in a way. Some are good and honest, wich you state you are. But alot of them are fawkin thieves. So many instances where I'd have shelled out alot of money if I didnt know whats goin on, then the machanic sayin "oh yeah, you're right".

From what I know of you, youre a cool shit. But you cant speak for all the mechanics cuz I lump them in with.. tow truck drivers, cops, lawyers and politicians. The mass are fawkin swines. Period. And the test is a GOVERNMENT scam. Argue till you are blue in the face, bottom line is the test is a GOV. scam.

Dude we are not theives. Some maybe. But not the majority. Not even close. There is no way we wold stay in business if we were. These vehicals we worl on are so complicated and take a lot of knowledge skill and a huge amount of tools. My father has about 1.8 million in tools and equipment in the shop, we all go to school regularly to learn how to fix these basterds. Thats why it costs so much for repairs. Even then parts take up 50 to 70% of the bill. Fixing your car is and alwayz has been a grudge buy. Its made even worse when a person hasn't a clue what he or she is paying for. Its extremely hard for us to explain the repairs even to guyz that have somewhat of a clue because then we make them feel stupid. Look I'm not gonna get into this anymore. No point. Its the internet. Why get mad on the internet right:)

I can tell you that I'm honest. Shit I ****ed up a guys vehical thursday, backed it into a van and busted the tail light. Told him what I did and Bought a new tail light. I screwed up his schedual a bit. But he was happy I told him what happened. Most, and its true. Most techs are on the up and up. We would be outta buisness if we werent. This aint the 50's. Man its hard to be in this trade. :thefinger Ah well though. I'm the guy thats gonna change ur minds on my trade. :)

Evolvocane
November 28th, 2006, 07:24 PM
1 more thing.

Light duty diesel test is a scam. Its a visual inspection with little to now criteria to follow. Its also more expsensive then a regular e-test.

Any 2 speed Idle test can cause engine damage and should be done away with. Drive clean is well aware of the problems with the 2 speed idle yet does nothing to change. vehicals affected are : full time 4 wheel drive
all wheel drive
cars that cannot disable traction control
99 and older gm trucks with auto 4wheel
drive

Heavy duty diesel tests can blow the engine. One portion of that test is taking the engine 3000rpm un loaded. Most shops wont do that test including mine.

The conditional pass. Should be done away with. Its limit can be reached by placing recommended totals and actually doing any work to improve the emssions out the tail pipe.

The implemtation of drive clean it self. The public has never been properly educated on the what it is, what is for. Just told one day they gonna have e-tests. There is a number you can call, bt they give no or incorrect info.

So yes. I believe there are problems. I definitely believe drive clean has taken some major junkers of the road. Course running your lawnmower for an hour pumps out the same emissions as 30 cars doing regular driving for month. bikes are even worse. Government does nothing there. Another implementaion problem. It should be all or nothing.

I got curious one day and put my dads grizzly 600 on the analizer.

BACKGROUND.
Avg. car: at idle
hc - 5
co% .04
Nox 27ppm

Grizzly

hc - 4009
co% - 13.8
Nox 700ppm


Thats just to give you an idea. Anyway to close. Not all techs are bad, drive clean needs work, Life sucks but I have a helmet.:D

gobig
November 28th, 2006, 08:38 PM
holy crap, whay year is the grizzly???
on my R1 (2002)it had a cat in the muffler, as all new bikes do(well most anyway)
second, we all know,that 90 sec of driving is NOT operating temp.
most mech are pretty good, until work slows down, then they seem to replces parts, instead of fixing them.
i am not saying your shop is bad for that, or anybody i know, but you can't possible over look every mech, or the whole shop to see who doing what.
i know for a fact, that when my brother took a 85,or 86 something like that,Iroc into a shop to get tested, they made him wait,pulled the car up cold, took down some info under the hood, and ran it.
it failed
now here the good part, he had id buddy mech look it over, who also works at a e test repair shop, different from the place that did just e test, and nothing else.
they went through the car, and found nothing to be wrong. what was wrong was the tech that took down info from the under side of the hood, in which the hood was replaced with a different hood, fromma different year, and different motor , different tranny, etc,etc
so since he had inputed the wrong info, the car was demed a fail, and i guess from what was a rule back then, it could not be reversed.
so long story short, that car has been made into coke cans!!!!
i think that most shops signed up for etesting, because they thought they were going to get more work out of all the repairs that would come of it, but thats not the case, and hasn't been. alot of people were forced to sell their junk, or just scrap their junk, in favor of a newer, or new car/truck
car and truck sales went up just a few years after etesting was introduced.
now don't red into this, i AM NOT saying mech are crooks, or what ever, just a veiw of how things can go bad, with not properly trained techs, as you are well aware of your self i am sure.
i hate the whole etest thing, and the diesel one, what a joke, i can go in, tune my truck down to stock, they look at it, check for smoke, and give me a pass, then as i pull away, i wave good bye, dail it back up, and pour coal till i have no more gear!!!!!
not that i would do that or have done that, but just saying.

Evolvocane
November 28th, 2006, 08:53 PM
holy crap, whay year is the grizzly???
on my R1 (2002)it had a cat in the muffler, as all new bikes do(well most anyway)
second, we all know,that 90 sec of driving is NOT operating temp.
most mech are pretty good, until work slows down, then they seem to replces parts, instead of fixing them.
i am not saying your shop is bad for that, or anybody i know, but you can't possible over look every mech, or the whole shop to see who doing what.
i know for a fact, that when my brother took a 85,or 86 something like that,Iroc into a shop to get tested, they made him wait,pulled the car up cold, took down some info under the hood, and ran it.
it failed
now here the good part, he had id buddy mech look it over, who also works at a e test repair shop, different from the place that did just e test, and nothing else.
they went through the car, and found nothing to be wrong. what was wrong was the tech that took down info from the under side of the hood, in which the hood was replaced with a different hood, fromma different year, and different motor , different tranny, etc,etc
so since he had inputed the wrong info, the car was demed a fail, and i guess from what was a rule back then, it could not be reversed.
so long story short, that car has been made into coke cans!!!!
i think that most shops signed up for etesting, because they thought they were going to get more work out of all the repairs that would come of it, but thats not the case, and hasn't been. alot of people were forced to sell their junk, or just scrap their junk, in favor of a newer, or new car/truck
car and truck sales went up just a few years after etesting was introduced.
now don't red into this, i AM NOT saying mech are crooks, or what ever, just a veiw of how things can go bad, with not properly trained techs, as you are well aware of your self i am sure.
i hate the whole etest thing, and the diesel one, what a joke, i can go in, tune my truck down to stock, they look at it, check for smoke, and give me a pass, then as i pull away, i wave good bye, dail it back up, and pour coal till i have no more gear!!!!!
not that i would do that or have done that, but just saying.


Yeah. You have to make sure you punch in the proper info into the machine, engine size and wether or not its auto or standerd. It happens. You guyz are right theres no way I can say all mechs out there are on the up and up. You know what though, I can tell ya that they can't last out there for too much longer. Ya have to make the customer happy. Ya have to do your best to make them understand what ur doing and ya have to explain all costs in detail. Hacks wont do that. Anyway. Sorry to all you guyz if I came off as an ass.

gobig
November 28th, 2006, 09:04 PM
and that a true fact
you know what else, the dealerships are short on man power, and they will hire any person out there, even if they never had a wrench in their hand before.i don't have a problem with that, what i have a problem with is that most of these kids don't want to learn, and don't care about your car.
they have no idea what they are doing, and they seem to get perfect marks on the in class stuff, but can't fix, or replace a thing to save their life. i know a couple of these people first hand. and thats in every trade as well.
i am glad you didn't take what i said personally, because it wasn't directed to anyone for that matter.i know is a tough go for most mech, as thats the impression everyone gets when something goes wrong, only takes one time, and there all scammers.



to get back on track:can you tell us if your oil was changed, and if you needed maintence,etc
run your sammy,and go to a shop that either does just etests, or one that doesn't seem to be busy with them.
i find i go to a toyota dealer, as most people don't go to them for etesting because they don't know they have the machine.

Gadzooks
December 1st, 2006, 02:17 PM
and that a true fact
you know what else, the dealerships are short on man power, and they will hire any person out there, even if they never had a wrench in their hand before.i don't have a problem with that, what i have a problem with is that most of these kids don't want to learn, and don't care about your car.
they have no idea what they are doing, and they seem to get perfect marks on the in class stuff, but can't fix, or replace a thing to save their life. i know a couple of these people first hand. and thats in every trade as well.
i am glad you didn't take what i said personally, because it wasn't directed to anyone for that matter.i know is a tough go for most mech, as thats the impression everyone gets when something goes wrong, only takes one time, and there all scammers.



to get back on track:can you tell us if your oil was changed, and if you needed maintence,etc
run your sammy,and go to a shop that either does just etests, or one that doesn't seem to be busy with them.
i find i go to a toyota dealer, as most people don't go to them for etesting because they don't know they have the machine.

My oil was not changed recently. The shop is strictly for clean tests. Front desk girl was smitten enough last time to get me on the ramp fast, so hopefully she'll be in tomorrow. I've filled up with premium fuel, got two bottles of "run clean", gonna change the oil in the morning, head to the shop, book in, go outside drive up and down the street till he waves me in and cross my fingers.

Jester-
December 1st, 2006, 06:00 PM
Heh, a tech at a muffler shop near here tried to scam me the other day. Brought my truck in to get the manifold-downpipe studs changed. Guy's telling me I need new everything exhaust related, that it's going to break when he takes it down and therefore it's going to cost more, this part will leak so I need to replace that. The best part I found was he said I needed a new downpipe because I put some jbweld on the bottom half, where there was infact no leaks, just a to-be-sure sort of thing... he didn't say I word when I questioned him.

The tech's who run the e-tests at my work, are young however they are certified and they know their shit pretty well.

Oh and I gotta agree, that conditional pass is a joke.

fullsizeguy
December 2nd, 2006, 12:49 AM
wow I'm glad i run a 1.6 in my lwb.....it's a HOTROD;) they cant put it on the dyno if it happens to have drive flanges and the shifter is stuck or missing:D

SuziCrazy
December 2nd, 2006, 09:05 AM
Dude tell them your truck is stuck in 4WD.... they can't dyno it, so they will have to idle and rev test that's it...

BIGZOOK69
December 4th, 2006, 01:06 PM
I will un puff my chest when you check ur tude. You type or talk to people like that, expect a reaction. As far as the testing goes the warm up times are part of the program in the operating systems on the analizers. So you see on every test those engines are at operating temperature. Every test. We follow the guide lines to a ****ing tee! If we don't we get shut down for 6 months. Thats 6 months with 110 thousand dollar paper wieght.

All these people out there (you included it would seem) think drive clean is a cash grab and the techs doing it are screwing you. We have nothing to do with wether your vehical passes or fails. Yet we still get the full brunt of everyones shit when their car or truck fails.

I can tell you there is a problem with drive clean.. For sure there is. Its called the conditional pass. It should not exsist. If a vehical fails that should be it!
I will also tell you that most vehicals are spitting out about 0%-5% of the allowed limits. Thats 95% left for breathing room.. What that means is that if its failing there is a problem with the way the vehical is running. Like it or not thats the fact. I can explain to you in detail how drive clean works. What causes these vehicals to fail, what systems affect what gases. I can give you all that info. Infact I would like to. You should call me. But don't ever think we are the assholes. We are doing our jobs. We don't skip anything. If your vihical fails its becuase its not running properly. end of story. Sorry if thats harsh. But I'm a no bulshit kinda guy.

Sarge pm me and I will give ya my number. If your interested in it. I will explain it all to you. If not tonight. Tomorrow.


Wow,take notes people this is passion..call me if you ever want a job cleaning ducts.I wish my guys had this kind of spunk...

Gadzooks
December 4th, 2006, 01:07 PM
I'll try the stuck in 4wd thing Mike thanks...problem being I've already been in and they know it wasn't at the time. Gonna try tomorrow A.M. with a hot as shit cat and some gas line antifreeze...I'll let ya'll know what the outcome is.
thanks

Gadzooks
December 7th, 2006, 12:37 PM
****!! Although I understand the environmental impact!! I can ****ing understnd why people think that the e-test is a scam! Utterly frustrating...Failed my second try. This time around I was charged 16$ dollars for a new gas cap, when last time it seemed to work fine...Spent an hour and a half driving around all morning to get my cat good and hot, lots of anitfreeze, two tanks of premium, an oil change and a drive clean fluid of some sort...**** **** ****.
Dude at the shop in the waiting room suggested I take out and clean my ego? evg? valve? I have no idea what he was talking about...anyone have any contributions???
thanks

SamiFlyer
December 7th, 2006, 06:47 PM
****!! Although I understand the environmental impact!! I can ****ing understnd why people think that the e-test is a scam! Utterly frustrating...Failed my second try. This time around I was charged 16$ dollars for a new gas cap, when last time it seemed to work fine...Spent an hour and a half driving around all morning to get my cat good and hot, lots of anitfreeze, two tanks of premium, an oil change and a drive clean fluid of some sort...**** **** ****.
Dude at the shop in the waiting room suggested I take out and clean my ego? evg? valve? I have no idea what he was talking about...anyone have any contributions???
thanks
He meant the EGR valve. Sorry to hear about your troubles. Time to swap in an 8v 1.6 with EFI. Trust me, it will cost you less in the long run.


Sean :cool:

Gadzooks
December 7th, 2006, 07:52 PM
Thats it!!! I'm going to EFI. Goodbye pony carb, good riddance cold start issues, hello acceleration!!!
Thanks for any and all advice.
See you at the starting line.