runs like a bag of $h!t!

[CaptN Air Time]

my 89 1.6 is a POS. And it shouldn't be. Its got new rings and bearings, a fairly new head, all new tune up parts, and a professionally cleaned injector. It gets 14 MPG (ran well @23mpg for a month or so after the rebuild) and has about 40HP. It runs barely OK around town, but as soon as I hit the highway and it warms up to 1/3 or so, it gets worse and worse to the point it won't idle or run below 2000RPM. It won't start unless the injector is disconnected and its cranked WFO, then connected once it fires. What gives? I don't know much about suzuki's EFI and its diagnostic abilities. Getting really close to selling the long block to someone who wants to carburate it, and puting in a real motor. But that would suck, 'cause I wanna play in the snow all winter, and I can't if its in pieces in the garage!!!

[Fullload]

You have a "check" engine light? sounds like you are flooding the pee pee outta her.
Are you trying to give it gas when it tries to crank over after it stalls? 1st rule of thumb with EFI. NEVER TOUCH THE GAS PEDAL. or you will be in for a big treat. Next time instead of disconnecting the Fuel injector try pushing the pedal to the floor. Upon WOT (wide open throttle) while starting, the ecm tells the fuel injector not to give any fuel. If anything it will at least help from disconnecting it from the motor when it does stall.
If that does not work try resetting the computer. Disconnect the Battery for 30 seconds or so and try it again for a day or two.
This forces the ecm to erase the old engine fault codes and relearn the idle process and sensor inputs. May help you and it may not. Good luck.

But at least it is the cheap approach for now.

[Depot]

If she ran good after the rebuild and only a month later did it start acting up.. well, im thinking vacuum hose somewhere especially when u say it goes bananas after it warms up a bit. maybe the auot-choke is stuck? maybe ur injector is kaffed and stuck wide open.

but it definatly sounds like a fuel problem/air problem

check ur aif filter? any obstructions? Make sure thers no beer cans in ur snorkel :D

gl
D

[CaptN Air Time]

Thanx guys, I'll try to reset the comp. The WOT clear-flood deal does nothing, I figured it just didn't have that feature (works for my Fords, but who knows for the 'zuki, I figured) No check engine light except the usual key on, engine off part. Injector cleaned and tested last week, AOK. No apparent vac leaks, but the IAC solenoid IS a little screwy, mayby I'll try cutting it out. Maybe I'll tear the TB down into itty bitty pieces and reassemble with lots of goo to make sure there's no other leaks etc.
Thanx a lot.
Erik

[Fullload]

Now that you tell me that the idle air control sensor was screwy that could be the very prob. Grasshopper had a kik that did that. He was going to buy a new one but figured out how to "Re-Set" so that it worked. This was on a 1993 model year. You say that you have an 89. In the maunual it says that only 1992-1998 1.6 and 1.8 litre engines had this. You sure that it is the original motor? If not is it the original computer? or a computer that matches the motor?

At any rate here is how to adjust it if it was ever bumped or removed at one time.

Detach the harness from the IAC valve connector.

Connect the positive lead of the digital volt meter set on the volt meter function, to the harnes connector terminal 2 and the negative lead to a good engine ground.

Turn the ignition on and measure the amount of voltage, it should be 8.5-9.5 volts. If not it is either your IAC or your Ecm

Turn the truck back off and stick the meter on the ohms setting and put leads into both one and two of the IAC unit. The resistance should be about 11-14 ohms and if not replace it with new or a known good one.

If it is within the range quoted than you have a good IAC valve and a bad Ecm.


Good luck and i hope this helps.

[CaptN Air Time]

Well, I went thru it the other night, and the ISC solenoid checks out within spec. The TPS is all within spec. all vac lines are good and correctly installed. Battery disconect does no good, so I'm gonna have to look into the computer itself.:bang:

[Fullload]

Thats the only thing left to be wrong. To save some $$$$ try a known good one from a buddy before you buy one.
Good luck and thanks for the up date. I was wondering how it was going.

[lil beast]

what about the converter.

is it clogged?

[Fullload]

Good idea. lil beast, the thought never crossed my mind.happened to depot on a mud trail and we had to cut it out on the spot. then it ran great.

[CaptN Air Time]

Originally posted by lil beast
what about the converter.

is it clogged?

WHATS A CONVERTER? Am I just slow tonite, or have I got no idea at all ? EGR is long gone, and the PCV is good. Can't think what else you're talking about???

[CaptN Air Time]

Originally posted by CaptN Air Time
WHATS A CONVERTER? Am I just slow tonite, or have I got no idea at all ? EGR is long gone, and the PCV is good. Can't think what else you're talking about???

Duh, uh, I think you mean the catalytic converter:D Brand new.

Sigh... back to the computer thing again.

[TheSarg]

way off in left field here, but after all i've read only thing i can ask is how is your timing??? off a tooth on the belt? distrib in wrong? wires on wrong? wtf, timing is where its at bro

[CaptN Air Time]

Originally posted by TheSarg
way off in left field here, but after all i've read only thing i can ask is how is your timing??? off a tooth on the belt? distrib in wrong? wires on wrong? wtf, timing is where its at bro

Good call. Its been odd too. My mechanic friend said its got a definite timing issue, but I'm SURE there's something else too, because of the fuel situation. It puddles in the bottom of the throttle body at idle! Its not the injector itself. As far as the timing, can't the computer screw up the fuel as well as the timing?
Ran well enough at 12*, then it started doing its thing, and runs better at ~40*BTDC (maxed out). Then it won't run at all, and I mess aound again, back to the 10-12* mark, and its reasonable until it gets hot. I've checked and rechecked and rechecked again the timing belt, and its perfect. I've never had the distributor out, and it was fine before??? cap/rotor/wires are new with the fresh bottom end. Maybe the dist gear is loose on the shaft? I'll look at pulling it out today if I get a chance.

[TheSarg]

tensioner shot? too much slap in the belt causing retarded timing? vaccum advance not werking???

im gunna keep asking questions till im right dammit!!!

[CaptN Air Time]

Originally posted by TheSarg
tensioner shot? too much slap in the belt causing retarded timing? vaccum advance not werking???

im gunna keep asking questions till im right dammit!!!

The tensioner SEEMS reasonable, but if it WAS a little slack, could it slap enough at idle to retard ign timing 30+ degrees !??! seems unlikely. Power seems reasonable at top end, its just hard to get there :(
Its snowing now :D :yike :beer: gotta get a move on!

[lil beast]

do you still have your old set of wires,cap,rotor? put them back on and try it.

i have had new wires on and when ever it rained or was damp out it sputtered unless it was full throttle.


keep tryin
:ale: