extending wheelbase question?

[littlejackass]

I am planning to bring the arse end out almost a foot in the back. My question is do I need to remove the fuel tank from the stock position if I do so? I am planning to run a 4 link rear.

[TheSarg]

if yer planning on bringing the arse end back a foot, you'd have the interior space to run a custom fuel cell that would redistribute the weight better anyways, and yeah unless u got real long bump stops i can see clearance issues:ale:

[Mudslug]

Why extend the back? It's easier IMHO to add the wheelbase at the front. It looks cool and gives you a killer place to mount a winch.

[Superzuk]

Ummm... how about extending both ends a little bit. 6" each side... gives room for longer springs up front, and longer springs in the rear...

[Fullload]

Twice the work re locating steeering geometry for a few extra inches when you just go hard core on one end and worry about the rest at a later date.
Littlejackass, if you move the rear axle any more than 4 inces you will have to move the tank. IMHO if i was going to move the tank i woul;d go 10-12" in the rear as well. Just move it like sarge said. In towars the center of the truck.
what are your plans for the rear then? tube or extended box or etc.... Tell us and show us some pics!!!!

[Mudslug]

He is swapping out axles and you're worried about steering geometry? hahah

Just measure the difference between the known axle centre and the new axle centre and move the box forward accordingly...

[littlejackass]

Front end is already pushed out 8 inches, via extended frame and sr toy springs. (winch is mounted there :) )
I want to be able to run my hard and soft top so my game plan is just to trim it all the way to the back and have the hatch in the back welded shut.
I need to move my axel back atleast 6-8" anyways because I am doing a similar conversion to Off-your-rocker with the kick case in the middle, so an extra 4" ontop of that aint that big of deal.

[littlejackass]

so I would want the tank closer to the front then too the back?

[Fullload]

I would put the tank closer to the front for a couple of reasons.
The first is that there is less chance to hang up and dent your tank on the hard departures. The second reason is for simplicity, it is easier to cut exsisting lines than add longer ones.
The only problem i see really is re-locating the filler hole. Which in either case has to be done whether you move it further back or forward.
Suzuki from the factory made the hole as part of the rear quarter panel. I would cut out a nicde square and move it then patch the hole that was in the exsisting location and cut a new hole in the desired place. Probally more options as well if you move it forward as well.

[drtysuzuk]

You dont have to cut out around the filler neck, it is spot welded.
just drill out the welds .

When you re-locate it you can cut a round hole, drill some holes and spot it back on with a mig.

I did this when i bought new 1/4 panels for my sami, they dont come with the filler cut out

:beer: :beer:

[Fullload]

Cool thatnks for the tip. i did not know that!!!:beer:

[off_your_rocker]

i tried to keep my body when i started cutting, but i cut it all of and never looked back on. you just have to be prepaired for the weather plus it looks cooler, hey hows the cases workin? :beer:

[littlejackass]

still havent gotten to the swap, too cold out, will have to wait till spring i think :(