T- Case trouble

[XS CASH]

First, I'm new to the Zook world and so far having a blast.

I bought an '88.5 with a trashed tranny, no problem swapped a tranny rebuild for some wrench turning.

Now the t-case is shot, did the shift sheet..time to rebuild.
Fluid in the case looked like caramel, same color and texture.

Finally, here is the questions.

A- is it worth rebuilding or should I just get a new one

B- How in the **ll does that thing come out. All the cross members are unbolted as well as the shafts at the t-case.
Do I need to take the shafts off the axles fisrt then slide the shaft out of the t-case?

C- The black cable, I'm assuming its the speedo cable, how does it come off or out.

Sorry for the newbie questions just need some direction. Thanks for your time and help.

[Mudslug]

Remove all shafts going to the T case and then the T case mounts.

first remove the shifter knob and boot

I find it easier to completely remove the front and rear shafts then place the t case in Neutral and the tranny in neutral. This way you can now spin the intermediate shaft between the Tranny and T case to get to all the bolts on the T case input side.

Now do the Speedo cable...its been awhile since I have done a Sammy tcase so I may be off (I am sure i will hear it if I am)

They either have a threaded sleave you undo and then it pulls out of the case or there is a tab with a bolt holding it in place....I run dual toyo cases so I cannot remember:D

Either way soak it down with brake cleaner or WD40 to get it clean and take a good look at it and you will be disco!!

Then undo the mounts and drop it out...easy as hair pie....

[Mudslug]

Oh ya, what are you rebuilding?? The T case because its got ugly oil?? Hahahah never mind the oil...refill with new clean oil and reinstall.....it will be fine man....its a ZOOK!!

[Depot]

A - if it aint broke, dont fix it

B - odds are ur drive shaft are seizend onto ur t-case flanges.. after u get all 4 bolts out per shaft, give it a good smack with a hammer a being caareful not to break the yoke or the u-joint - that will take some work to seperate - darn rust.

dropping the case takes a bit of juggling.. I find it easiest if u leave it in 4 wd high (dont forget to remove the knob and boot from top first) - and remove the short arm that holds the case in on the drivers side of the zuk - 4 bolts hold it in but watch urself, she is gonna drop an inch when u pull those 4 bolts out. then u gotta lift it up off the other 2 rubber mounts and juggle it.

get someone to help u the first time - by holding the shifter handle from above to take som eof the weight and change gears as needed to sneak it by.

C - 10 mill bolt just off to the side of where the speedo cable goes in. Like Mudslug says, soak the hell outta it in wd. once u get the bolt out and the cable unseized, it just pulls straight out but if shes old and rusty, she'll prolly break off inside.

if ur thinking of rebuilding a t-case, it is a lot of work to pull out the speedo gear to crack the case open - if ur gonna go that far, u might wanna look into doing 4:1 or 6:1 or whatever while ur that far in.


gl

D

[XS CASH]

While shifting from 2w to 4w the shifter locked up solid. So now the shifter WILL NOT move. This is the reason for the rebuild. The 4:1 and 6:1 crossed my mind but I got a rebuild kit free and a friend, transmission shop owner, who needs a set of carbs rebuilt.:D So all I have to do is take that thing out!

Good news is she still runs down the road in 2w....for now.

[Depot]

sounds like u may have just dislodged the shifter handle itself - it either slipped between the shift forks or jumped into the lo/hi slot.. id suggest looking at that first b4 u rebuilt the entire case...

thats a fast job u can do from within the zuk and u dont have to mess with ur speedo cable or nutin... change the oil and ur back on the go. If u want detailed instructions on how to pull handle out and place it properly send a msg back and I'll write something out for yah tommorow.

gl

D

[XS CASH]

D that would be great!! I replaced the shift sheet already and when I looked down inside the case there were two rods notched to fit the bottom of the shifter. The rods were almost even when looking at them. If this helps let me know.

Thanks for your time.

[XS CASH]

One more thing while taking the inter. shaft loose, tranny to t-case right?, there was one bolt and nut that was not the same size. Is this important or sombody else's screw up.

[Fullload]

Sounds like someone elses doing to me.

[Depot]

ok.. lemme see how good my memmory is hung over.....

the 2 rods are ur shifting forks. one for hi/low and the other for 2/4 if the notch in both of em is side by side making one big notch, u r in 4wd High. when looking down into the t-case from within ur zuk, the fork on the right is ur 2/4 and the left one is hi/low... lemme throw up a visual aid.. hand drawn cause Im way to hungover to do a nice pic...

srry.. pics are gone

D

[Depot]

ok... nice pic eh! :D

the black dot represents the end of ur shifter handle. normally u start in 2 hi, pulling the shift down slides the fork on the right up... then when they are side by side u can swing the shift to the roght which moves the bottom of the shift to the left fork, then by pushing up on the shifter, it slides the hi/low fork down to low posistion... all the movements u make to the shifter are opposite of what happens inside the case.

odds are what hapeneded in ur case is the shifter squeazed between the forks and either got stuck in that gap between em or poped all the way into the other forks slot outta turn and it wont allow to do nutin.

so once u remove the shifter and its boot, u have to figure out what the t-case is in, 2 4 high or low.. fromw what u said earlier, its stuck in 2 hi. if thats the case, place the shifter back into the corect slot and bobs ur unkle.

also, when ur looking down the throat of ur t-case shifter.. make sure the locating pins are ther and intact.. if memmory serves me, i think there are 2 pins on the front and back of the throat.. they keep ur shifter from going to china when u change gears. if one is broken, then u might be in some trouble but ahve a look first make sure theyre there b4 u worry bout it.. change ur oil and take a close look at the drain plug magnet to see if u got any metal filing or chunks... if not then u prolly dont need to do nutin more to fix that t-case.

hope this makes sense and helps.. if ot, I'll try again after i get some much needed sleep.

gl

D

[XS CASH]

D thanks for the help I'm working until 6:30pm tonight..but I'll be jumping right on it when I get done hunting on 01/02. Hope this is the problem and I'll let you know.

Thanks for your time and good luck with the hang over!

[XS CASH]

Well I have good news and bad news.

GOOD- It worked the shifter is free and the case works with new juice!!

BAD- Now the front end will not pull! :bang:

All four wheels off the ground the case is engaged the front shaft is spinning...but no front tires turning. Do you think the hubs went bad just sitting. If anyone can help..again..let me know.
Yes I had the hubs locked in and they did work last time out, 3-4 months ago. I drove around thinking they would free up with no luck.

Thanks for your time,and help!

[MuddMachine]

Take off the hubs and clean them up, then smear a THIN coat of grease inside them........and I stress THIN COAT !

[XS CASH]

Well took off the hubs cleaned them up a bit and applied a thin coat of goo. Hubs are shot....time to start a new thread.

Thanks to everyone for the info