View Full Version : the double cardin front toyota driveshaft
zc911
January 19th, 2004, 03:49 PM
The front toyota shaft, that is good for the rear of a sammi when swapping in toyota axles,what year pickup (maybe 4 runner too?) does that come off of?
And anyone got a pic so i know what i am looking for here :)
I searched but nobody ever says what year they come off of?
Mudslug
January 19th, 2004, 03:55 PM
Front dshaft off of 84 and up pick ups and 4 runners. The earlier stuff has the same style but they don't have the same abilities....
zc911
January 19th, 2004, 04:00 PM
perfect, thanks :)
What are they worth?
so i don;t pay $100 for a $50 part :)
thanks
Mudslug
January 19th, 2004, 04:10 PM
I paid $500 for my two but they were brand new, custom length, perfectly balanced with extra thick tubing. But I have seen them for $50 used in a junk yard....
PM Superzuk....he may have some
zc911
January 19th, 2004, 04:20 PM
he has one, he doesn;t wnat to sell though
Ya i found a shit load ranging from $30-$200 lol
gues i'll call up one who is around $50-$75 :)
thanks again
Superzuk
January 19th, 2004, 05:51 PM
Let me check what I have...
lil beast
January 19th, 2004, 10:47 PM
I have some, i need to know the length you need
zc911
January 20th, 2004, 08:16 AM
do you, sweet, crap i won;t know though till i get the axle under the truck though right?
I am not extending the wheel base any, and i plan to put it where the stocker is now, just spring over
If i messure the length of the stock driveshaft is that good enough?
Superzuk
January 20th, 2004, 09:59 AM
No, cause you are lifting it 5.5 inches. It should need to be approx an inch or so longer. I would wait then measure it.
zc911
January 20th, 2004, 10:30 AM
cool
I am gonna put the smallest spring perches i can on the axle, and use the 2.5ish lift springs i have now.
Will that be too much? Should i switch them out for stock springs and maybe some taller spring perches?
Also i was thinking about maybe moving the front axle forward a couple inches to get more clearence between the tire and the body.
I know i would have to weld on some frame extensions on the front, and cut off the stock spring hanger( the back one) and make new ones and move them forward.
Would i need a custom driveshaft?
Would i ahve to move the steering box forward as well?
Since i drive it everday is that a good idea? OR should i just live with the tire nailing the body?
MuddMachine
January 20th, 2004, 10:40 AM
zc911 this is the LAST step in building a truck.
zc911
January 20th, 2004, 10:47 AM
so your thinking this a not a good idea for me?
I wanted to do it so i don;t have to worry as much about breaking things. Since it;s somthing i depend on for 6 months a year i figured this would be a worth while upgrade
MuddMachine
January 20th, 2004, 12:02 PM
Do what you wanna do but getting a driveshaft to length should be last on the list. Driveshaft lengths are not something you can geuss at, chances are costly. When the truck is ready to be driven, get the shafts made/lengthened. Keep spring sag/settlement in mind.
Mudslug
January 20th, 2004, 12:06 PM
And spend the money on the long slip shafts......
MuddMachine
January 20th, 2004, 12:10 PM
Originally posted by Mudslug
And spend the money on the long slip shafts......
Agreed....... IF the end goal is a flexy suspension, otherwise save the money.
zc911
January 20th, 2004, 12:53 PM
ahhh ok now i see what you mean. i was (after reading Superzuks post) going to wait on the driveshafts :)
Fullload
January 20th, 2004, 03:15 PM
I need to cut my front shaft and you know where it is? Forgotton and maybe lost (stupid brain) waiting for the right time to be measured, cut and installed)
zc911
January 20th, 2004, 03:17 PM
hahah damn brain is never there when you need it :D
what do you guys think about moveing the front axle forward 2-3inches?
MuddMachine
January 20th, 2004, 03:38 PM
Move it, sure, you have crossover steering now, right ? Use the rear leafs up front.
zc911
January 20th, 2004, 03:39 PM
what i was thining was using the front springs just moveing the front sping mount up 3inches, and making a new rear spring mount and welding it 3inches forward of the old one
Superzuk
January 20th, 2004, 03:53 PM
rears will flex better and last less time... :)
vanbdan
January 20th, 2004, 05:45 PM
Originally posted by Superzuk
rears will flex better and last less time... :) :confused:..............did you mean last longer?
also if you asked around a bit someone will have stock rear leafs to unload.
lil beast
January 20th, 2004, 06:13 PM
Zc911 by the looks of it has springs from trailmaster so they are all a bit longer than stock. IMHO I would put the rear spring pack in the front and put a set of cj's in the rear. This way you dont have to move any spring mounts, just get some missing links.
zc911
January 21st, 2004, 08:39 AM
that osunds like a good setup lil beast, but will that get my front axle moved forward 2-3inches?
Superzuk
January 21st, 2004, 11:00 AM
ummm... no I meant last less time... because the added flerx contributes to axle wrap...
As for missing links in the front of a truck.... PAIN IN THE ASS!!!!
Ask anyone who heard me coming at Suzican or anyone who went for a ride... it is too loose... (although mine were Breeze drop links in the front) Sure they do flex way better, but at a cost...
If you do, you need retaining pins in there for regular non flexy driving and to quiet things down. Things get awful scarey if you're travelling downa trail doing 30k or so and you hit a bump... the whole front end drops out a bit, and then comes back in a hurry for a bang cklikety bang clikety bang...
Sarge has my old truck, maybe he has input... I told him to put the pins in when I sold it, so maybe he did and can give better input
zc911
January 21st, 2004, 11:58 AM
ooo ya na i don;t wnat that, i think i'll go with maybe the harder route and move the spring hanger locations to where i want them, doing it won;t be too hard
MuddMachine
January 21st, 2004, 12:09 PM
Do what Beast said, CJ's in the rear and rears up front. You will have to move the shackles but NOT the hangers. This is how my LWB is set up. The rears up front will let you move maybe 2". Dont concern yourself with a few inches, you wont notice it unless its a substantial wheel base gain.
zc911
January 21st, 2004, 12:33 PM
alright that sounds good
So
STOCK samurai rear springs up front, and CJ rears in the rear?
MuddMachine
January 21st, 2004, 12:49 PM
Originally posted by zc911
alright that sounds good
So
STOCK samurai rear springs up front, and CJ rears in the rear?
Correct ! :beer:
zc911
January 21st, 2004, 03:28 PM
woohoo i got it right :D
this setup will still give good road manners right?
And how much lift are we looking at here?
lil beast
January 21st, 2004, 07:08 PM
Yes they have good road manners. I am on my 2nd year of wheeling with the (cough, cough) "C" (grumble, grumble) "J" springs.:D you will have to re arch the cj's to match the trailmaster spring. take them both to the spring shop and have them do the cj's 3" higher than the rear you removed. this will allow some extra inches for the spring to sag.
lil beast
January 21st, 2004, 07:09 PM
here is a pic of the rear with the new drop link.
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