View Full Version : Toyota help
TheSarg
February 21st, 2004, 06:23 PM
K guys, need yer expertise.
Doing a different truck, complete toyo drivline including 22re.
1. Gear reduction? OTT adapter tween the tranny & case or is there a better way? How much?
2. Hi-Steer? what company makes the best product for the best price & how much??
3. Axle strength? issues, company & how much?
4. Gears & lockers, tallest gear and best place to get them, how much??
5. Driveshafts, what to use what not to use and how to use it??
I know many of u out there have been there dun that so im hoping a case of beer @ Suzican will get me some useful info.
thanks guys
Sarg
Fullload
February 21st, 2004, 09:08 PM
What would you run for a Tire size and, if you intend to lock the front plays a big factor in alot of things.
From what i have read sky manufacturing has a killer crossover for toyota.
Anything over 33's with a locked front will need the beefy birfields. The smurfield guy on this site seems to be the bigest bang for his buck while all pro's are the cheapest in a states vendor, and bobby long is the crowd fav and has started the trend. Inners will not be too much of a concern until you go 37's. if your locked front and rear with 38's you definatly need birfs and cromoly inners in the front. It seems the rears are rarely a problem and if they do become there are vendors that offer cromo rears as well.
Rear disc is a must with these axles especally cause of our conditions and maybe a truss on the front and rear axle to prevent bending. all the work to swap everything out would really suck.
Any supplier should be able to get you a 5.29 Toyota 8" ring and pinions for about $300.00 a set CAD. All of them from what i hear are about the same quality. (some customer service is better than others) just keep your eyes open for sales.
If you do a Toyota driveline with a dual case set up i would save the cash and stay with the toyota 4.10's ,4.37's or 4.56's or if you can find a 4.88.
With all of toyota gear you'll be able to bolt in the driveshafts and they are known to be beef. just have to get them cut or lenghtened.
Toyota IFS steering box, or a fj-60 would be a good choice ported and tapped for hydro assist now or later down the road.
Did i miss anything?
xtrmtoy
February 22nd, 2004, 08:12 PM
I think Fullload got it covered pretty good, but here are my thoughts.
1. Gear reduction - If you're wheelbase will be ~95" or more, you can easily run dual toy cases. If you're staying at less than ~95", I would go with AAs 4.0, 4.7 or 5.0 to 1 gears in a single case.
The best bang for the buck is the dual cases. You can also run the OTT toy reduction and dana 300 setup. This is what I run. This allows you to have front drive only and a true twin stick tcase. It also gives you a total low range of 5.9:1. I highly recommend this setup but it is more expensive than the AA dual t case.
2. high Steer - They are all very comparable. Take your pick, OTT, Marlin, Sky, Allpro, etc...
I've made my own and used GM tie rod ends on mine.
3. Axle strength - The birfields in the front are the first thing to go. If you're not going to be locked up in the front, won't run bigger than 35s and don't drive pedal to the floor, I dought you will break one. I run 37" boggers and broke them regularly untill I got Lonfields. I haven't broke one since.
The front short axle shaft is next to go (if you've upgraded the birfields). Shaft breakage takes some more effort. Letting the front end bounce and not easing up on the gas is one way. I now run 4340 front shafts from Poly performance. Allpro, Lonfield and Marlin also sell some.
The rear shafts take some really work to break. I run a 350 V8 and dual tcases and have only broken two rear shafts. One was when I liked to do burnouts and drove like an idiot. The other was impact damage and any shaft would have busted. This over 10-15 years too. Don't upgrade the rear shafts unless you start to break them. I just keep a spare.
4. Gears and lockers: Depends on what you want. If you can find an electric locker from a 96+ 4runner, those make for a nice setup. I've been very happy with my toy electric locker and lock-right.
5. Stay with toy driveshafts and u-joints. the 84+ driveshafts can take up to ~40 degrees of angle.
Check the Pirate BB under the toyota section and read. Lots of good info there...and unfortunately a lot of bullshit too. Try this thread first:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=173918
Mat
PS. Let us know how your project goes.
TheSarg
February 22nd, 2004, 09:09 PM
Wow, and may i say again, wow. A complete project researched in 2 reply's, thanks FullLoad & Xtrmtoy fer all yer input.
So now as it stands i have 2 trucks to build by summer, and a fridge fulla beer, hmmmmmmm....hint hint LOL
U watch the other forums and realize that our lil piece of the net is kinda special:bawl: we are actually nice to each other!!!
lol thanks again folks, lets just see if i can get it dun.
Sarg
Superzuk
February 23rd, 2004, 09:25 AM
Sarge, Powertrax makes an inexpensive locker for the Toyota.
As for gear reduction, go Dual Cases using either The MC07 Marlin like I have or the Advance adapters dual case adapter like Mudslugs. The advance adapters is cheaper in cost and is Marlin's old setup. They both work great.
Then... you can make them dual stick as well. Also, you can get killer low ranges by swapping in 4.7, 5.1 or 4.0 gears in either of the cases in the dual tcase set up. Neat thing is that you can have one case stock, and other 4.7 or 5.1 and have stock gearing and killer gearing, and super killer gearing....
Should mount the lower gears in the rear case though.
Mudslug
February 23rd, 2004, 09:30 AM
Yep I turn 2.28 in the front case and 5.1 in the rear case and its plently low for anything you want to do. Don't worry about breakage, I have been on the nose, full left crank, locked front and rear in double low and bounced out backward in full 'I'm getting the fawk outta here" mode and no 'boom"
High steer? make your own...don't buy it.
TheSarg
February 24th, 2004, 10:42 AM
Okay here's the deal, made a custom enclosed halfcab Sammi with the hardtop rear door as my back wall <bling bling> The rear defrogger will even work.
Question, is would it be easier just to mount this puppy on the toyota pickup frame, its already lifted and done.
Seems to me that it would be less work to run the zuk body on the toyo frame, im makin a custom rear deck anyways & gunna chop the rear of the frame off, thoughts guys???
Mudslug
February 24th, 2004, 10:49 AM
Go with the yota frame, the lenght is already there for the frame extentions for the longer more flexy leaf springs.
Its always easier to cut away what you don't need then add what you need.
right?
LWB Samurai Joe
March 3rd, 2004, 12:50 PM
K guys, need yer expertise.
Doing a different truck, complete toyo drivline including 22re.
(1. Gear reduction? OTT adapter tween the tranny & case or is there a better way? How much?)
I like the Marlin products. A 2.28 secondary case and a 4.70 low range t-case gear set.
(2. Hi-Steer? what company makes the best product for the best price & how much??)
Sky Manufacturing offers a GREAT high steer kit for samurais that use Toyota running gear.
(3. Axle strength? issues, company & how much?)
I ran 42's, then down sized to 38.5 SX's with no problems. My axles are set up like this:
Front. Long fields, chromoloy inner axles, high pinion 5.29s' ARB, four runner vented disk breaks.
Rear: Front Range offroad full floater, V6 third member, 5.29s' ARB, four runner vented disks.
(4. Gears & lockers, tallest gear and best place to get them, how much??)
Answered above. I think that 5.71's have too small a pinion gear. 5.29's are good.
(5. Driveshafts, what to use what not to use and how to use it??)
I used the Toyota FRONT driveline in the back (double cardan) and a Toyota REAR driveline up front!
There you have it. Here are my rigs stats:
1987 Suzuki long wheelbase samurai
1984 toyota 2.4 liter 2L diesel motor(AXT turbo in soon)
1984 toyota 5 speed tranny, t-case with Marlin 4.70 low range gears
1983 toyota front axle, 5.29 gears, ARB locker and high pinion 3rd member, Longfields, vented disks with four piston calipers
1983 toyota rear axle, 5.29 gears, ARB locker, V6 3rd member, Front Range full floater kit with 4140 axles, disk brakes with four piston calipers
FJ80 master cylinder and power booster with proportion valve
Toyota IFS power steering
Sky manufacturing high steering
Marlin 4.70-1 transfer case (98 to 1) with dual sticks
Marlin secondary transfer case with 2.28 gear set (223 to 1)
Custom four link rear three link front coil suspension
38.5 x 14.5 x 15 SX swampers on Marsh racing 36 bead locked wheels
FULL herculined tub and partial exterior
Autometer gauges in the 5 vent holes
Extrememaire compressor with 5 gallons of onboard air
custom rear bumper, 2x5 gallon gas carrier, rear Ramsey 8000lb winch
custom rocker skids
Trail Tough front bumper with Ramsey 9500 Patriot winch and IPF lights
6 point DaveSport full cage, and exo portions
Corbeau sport seats
Trail Tough fold down windshield
cut door hinges for door removal
Custom soft top
15.5 gallon gas tank
TrailTough fender flares
Centerforce dual friction clutch
Amsoil bypass filter
Flex-a-lite dual electric fans
200 amp battery isolator
One optima red top
One optima yellow top
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