View Full Version : 1.3 16v swap
drtysuzuk
March 10th, 2004, 07:40 PM
Well it,s begun, pulled the motor, trans and tranfer case last week. I picked up the dodge motor mounts, they,ll drop the motor down 3/4" ,mazda cap and rotor and made up new header flange.
I,m still looking for an efi tank or a fuel cell. hopefully i can get the engine in this weekend and then get started on the wiring.
Has anyone cut out the tranny mount ?if so what did you replace it with?
MuddMachine
March 10th, 2004, 08:43 PM
Swift motor ?
Fullload
March 11th, 2004, 05:38 PM
I have been thinking hard lately about the 1.6 bottom with a 1.3 16 valve swift GT head. I have found a motor but ju8st trying to decide if thats the way to go. I would love too but i think that i have alot on my plate already. I think i may pick it up and hold it until i am ready!!!
What did you have to do to the header flange? Do you have any pics.
Can i have a part number for the dodge motor mounts or at least what make and year of vehicle to ask for?
what year Mazda cap and rotor did you use? was it just that cap and rotor or did you drop in the whole distributor? I heard that the stock dist. interferes with the firewall.
Ok you want the motor dropped and the tranny and case is out. Hmmmm makes me think that dropping the motor allows you to get enough room for the 1.6 tranny in the tunnel without modifying, and maybe to run a dual case.
That would be my gearing solution with a 1.6 bottom and the 1.3 16 valve head bolted to the 1.6 tranny/t-case and the OTT kicker 3 adapter to mate the sammy case behind it.
That would be my specs on my truck if i went that way. Does this sound close to what your thinking?
drtysuzuk
March 11th, 2004, 09:08 PM
yes swift gt. the mounts are from an 88 dodge 318 the cap and rotor are for a mazda 323 glx turbo, also allwheel drive.
the mounts were $96 for the pair @dealer, jobber is probably cheaper. the cap and rotor you will have to get from dealer around $70
the flange i had made up at local machine shop n.c. we send them quite a bit of work so i get a few freebies. you can buy a lazer cut flange aftermarket around $65 us check on the swift site
also getting adapter made to mount mazda rotor on swift dist shaft.
check Xfactors site also thread on pirate
Fullload
March 11th, 2004, 11:56 PM
Ok so you need another dist. to make it work or the GT dist will work with the cap and rotor only?
You did not clarify if you were going to use the 1.3 block or the 1.6. That will make a big difference in how the motor bolts in with the dodge mounts cause the 1.6 conversion uses one sammy mount and one sidekick mount.
If you are using the 1.3 block it must ( i am assuming) be the same as the original sammy 1.3.
Sorry for bieng so Picky but what make of dodge would that be? the old ram or Dakota? Would it matter because it was the same mount on all 318's.
when i have more time i will be all over xfactors site like a dirty shirt as well.
Thanks for your answers and keep us posted. How many horses do you think this will be with the 1.6 bottom end?
drtysuzuk
April 5th, 2004, 08:46 PM
I am useing the 1.3 block for now, although the 1.6 sounds like the better way to go as far as torque is concerned. The mazda rotor saves bashing the crap out of the fire wall.
The motors in , now the wireing oddesy begins.Hopefully it'll be runningby the end of aprill:yike
The Grump
April 6th, 2004, 10:26 AM
Suzuki Swift 16-valve twin cam into a Sammie:
This required a custom header and slight but careful modification of the firewall in order to accomodate the distributor and maintain the heater. The larger 55 amp altenator from the suzuki Sidekick JLX was a simple bolt on, along with the LARGER MOTOR MOUNTS from the early Suzuki Sidekick.
Why not use those motor mounts? why the ones from Dodge?
I don't have complete step by step details, just the basic's as we were going to do this conversion as well. Something on steering you might want to look into for better handling this person used the power steering actuator from the suzuki sidekick, along with the pump from a Suzuki Swift, and modified three-inch dropped pitman arm and tie rod.
xfaktor
April 6th, 2004, 04:56 PM
dodge mount are used to lower the engine and they have interlock, with prevent then from ripping apart. they costed me 16$ each when I did my swap.
the cap + rotor from the 323GTX was arount 40$ for both.
I used a 1600 bottom from a 8v. The power was GREAT but its not recommended for those who have concrete in their right foot. The combinaison of 1600 bottom + GTI head give a high compression level wich is hard on the piston at high revs.
xfaktor
April 6th, 2004, 04:58 PM
Originally posted by The Grump
This required a custom header
with the 1600 block I used the stock manofold of the GTI. All I had to do was to grind off some meat on the engine side support for the mount. I reused the GTI down-pipe with some cutting and welding.
drtysuzuk
April 6th, 2004, 08:46 PM
already running sidekick power steering, only problem now is the pump needs to be relocated . working on new bracket now.
As far as the dodge mounts, they are the same overall thickness as the original and like xfactor said they have an interlock so the cant pull apart.
Fullload
April 7th, 2004, 06:10 PM
Oh boy i'll be picking all your brains soon. I think i may be going that route. depends if i can get the motor this weekend.
How hard would the wiring be to mate? I am running efi already.
zc911
April 8th, 2004, 08:38 AM
Originally posted by xfaktor
I used a 1600 bottom from a 8v. The power was GREAT but its not recommended for those who have concrete in their right foot. The combinaison of 1600 bottom + GTI head give a high compression level wich is hard on the piston at high revs.
thats not really true, you might have a ping or two and alot of pining will cause a problem but high compression and high revs should not be a problem
Just outta curiosity, what is the compressio ratio?
MuddMachine
April 8th, 2004, 09:31 AM
Originally posted by zc911
thats not really true, you might have a ping or two and alot of pining will cause a problem but high compression and high revs should not be a problem
Well the 1.6 will not rev as high as the 1.3, you may rev it that high but it's not adviseable.
SuziCrazy
April 8th, 2004, 09:53 AM
I agree with Muddmachine, I don't recommend reving a 1.6 like you do the 1.3 unless you have a few spares :D
MuddMachine
April 8th, 2004, 01:02 PM
Id think the big benefit would be using the 1.6 bottom with the 16v 1.3 head. Using the 1.3 bottom might be the idea if it's strictly high revs and mud bogs. You just wont get the 'snot' like you would with the longer stroke crank.
Short stroke = hp (rpm)
Long stroke = torque (less rpm)
Cant argue that.
If you want a 1.6 bottom to spin fast, my opinion would be to have the crank micro polished and nitrided, crank/rods/pistons balanced. Now we're talkin alot of work, especially considering the cast pistons. You could replace them but thats costly. Settle for 6500 rpm with a 1.6 bottom and be happy.
:D
zc911
April 8th, 2004, 01:58 PM
well thats a differnt story, he said stress on the pistons, pistons don;t pop from high rpm use, rod bolts let go, valve float, but psitons aren;t usually the cause of a blow up
Fullload
April 9th, 2004, 01:44 AM
Guys we are not talking about a 1/4 mile drag zuk here. Like mudd said be happy with 6500rpms.
Any EFI vehicle has to be monitored by the ECM. As Far as i know all ECM's have rev limiters. My EFI zuk is at 6500rpm, and i belive thats plenty. No need( emphesis on the need) to go more, for what we do.
Depot
April 9th, 2004, 10:07 AM
yep, rev limiter in my 16v.. dont need more that 6500. I considered bypassing the ecm limiter but what for? change gears real fast and still plenty of torque.
D
drtysuzuk
April 9th, 2004, 08:11 PM
Got to work on the harness this afternoon,looks a lot worse than it realy is.Just have one plug left to figure out then i can start splicing.
The plug is a round connector with 8 wires. i know at least two of the wires are groundsand one has to power the fuel pump but i only have one side of the plug.The motor is an 89 swift gt
The wires are:
COLOUR STRIPE DOT
WH BLU SIL
PINK WH SIL
BR YL BLU
WH BL SIL
BL WH SIL
BL SIL
BL SIL
WH BL SIL
anyone?
MuddMachine
April 9th, 2004, 08:55 PM
You can download the manual HERE (http://www.ado13.com/dohczuke/dohc.htm) but its 55 megs. Its halfway down the page as "Online swift gti manual"
vanbdan
April 10th, 2004, 12:17 AM
hey Muddmachine,how about a adding all these usefull links to the links page,or to a seperate page for a FAQ..?
Depot
April 10th, 2004, 12:27 AM
If memmory serves me, pink is the power suply for the fuel pump with one of the grounds being dedicated for the pump.. easiest way to test, turn key to on, u should have 12 volts for a few seconds than zero (as it primes the fuel rail) 2 or more wires will be ur sender unit (guel gauge) the rest u got me.. Im guessing here but on my 1.6 16 harness, it incorporated, fuel pump, fuel guage, dome lights and door ajar switch and seatbelt switch all in the same harness chunk.
gl
D
Fullload
April 10th, 2004, 01:04 AM
Well i guess i am dedicated to this swap as well a i just bought the one i was looking at. It had all the sensors the harness and computer. ( i think the MAP sensor may be awall) It's an 89 motor as well.
I hope you guys can help and be patient with some of the questions i have. I will not be doing this soon as per i have enough on my plate to get done before may 24.
Xfactor. What head gasket did you use? the 1.3 GTI or the 1.6 sidekick?
xfaktor
April 10th, 2004, 12:21 PM
1.6 sidekick, but the difference is minimal..
The 1.6 gasket has a bigger bore then the 1.3. Its about 1/64 bigger. That what I saw when I compared the old 1.3 and 1.6 gasket when I did my swap.
xfaktor
April 10th, 2004, 12:42 PM
Originally posted by zc911
high compression and high revs should not be a problem
Just outta curiosity, what is the compressio ratio?
High compression + highrev = lot of stress and heat on "weak" crank and connecting rod. I know thats not the exact thing but its the simplified problem..
Also the setup generate about 120+ HP when the bottom is made for about 90HP. The head is designed for high rev (high flow) but the bottom is designed for more torque at slower rpm (more stroke)
Finaly as many said, the setup does work and is good! but dont use it at 6500RPM continusly. I ran mine for a year, when I played in mud and I had to be in high-rev for a long time, I keept it at 5000RPM
I dont know the exact compression ratio. But I can tell that regular fuel made the engine pink a lot. Super grade made it pink sometime when I was hard on it.
Fullload
April 10th, 2004, 12:56 PM
Drtysusuk here is a diagram that may help you a bit.
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7l0bw/90-GT-MT-Wiring-Diagram.pdf
szabotage
August 17th, 2005, 09:05 PM
I was on the swift forums awhile back and read that the 1.6 16valve head is a better swap than the 1.3 twin cam head. the main reason was flow. apparently the valves and ports from the SOHC 16 valve are larger than the 1.3 twincam head.
If I find the link I'll post it here. I do remember that the guy explaining it was named Jardamuth and has a buiseness in quebec that specializing in boosting suzuki motors. here's his site:turbine tech inc. (http://www.turbinetech.ca/)
Superzuk
August 18th, 2005, 09:04 AM
I was on the swift forums awhile back and read that the 1.6 16valve head is a better swap than the 1.3 twin cam head. the main reason was flow. apparently the valves and ports from the SOHC 16 valve are larger than the 1.3 twincam head.
If I find the link I'll post it here. I do remember that the guy explaining it was named Jardamuth and has a buiseness in quebec that specializing in boosting suzuki motors. here's his site:turbine tech inc. (http://www.turbinetech.ca/)
Szabo, do you remember a few years ago when Xfaktor came to Suzican, that thing was like an absolute rocket, with stock gears... I don't know about hp or tprque ratings on that motor, but I know what I saw, and there wasn't another truck there with that oomph when he was going up the sand dunes... so...I would be super confident in how that worked.. but that's just me...
MuddMachine
August 18th, 2005, 09:56 AM
Bigger valves, more flow, sure. But thats more of a top end issue. Im thinkin the 1.3 twin cam head might give you more torque at lower rpm.
szabotage
August 18th, 2005, 05:58 PM
actually your right. smaller valves and ports means better low end torque over the bigger valves and ports. my first 1.6 engine had the 1.3 head on it and felt alot more torquey than the 1.6 head which I ended up swapping later on. for the swift guys low end torque ain't a concern. the other factor is they were talkin bout boost setups which would be useless to us. anyways I thought it was something I should add to this old thread. build up the info on the forum.
oh and superzuk, I never attended the 2nd suzican but I did see the video's of xfaktors hill climb. pete menard came back the next year with a TBI 1.6 16 valve and did the same hill that X did with his twincam 1.6. both are equally good engines.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.1.4 Copyright © 2012 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.